[Sox]

For the DIY guys.

The first thing you'll need to do is work out whether you have the facility to melt all the rubber from the entire unit.
If you can't do that safely, then it's probably not a good idea to do it yourself.

Anyway, let's assume you can.

You can usually just bash the bottom spring saddle section from the main body with a rubber hammer, or stick it in a vice and yank/lever it off with some levers.
The spring saddle can be left aside for the moment, we'll call this piece number 4.

With the rubber removed from the main section, you will be left with 3 pieces.
1 - The upper section which bolts to the cars subframe.
2 - The intermediate section which locates the aluminium sleeve, and allows the spring saddle to attach.
3 - The aluminium sleeve which locates the shaft of the shock absorber.

You only re-use number 1, the upper section - and number 4, the spring saddle.
Number 2 and 3 are not used.

You then need two additional pieces to finish the puzzle.
A mild steel disk, and tube.

The disk measurements are -
Thickness - 6mm
OD - 87.5mm
Hole ID - 21mm
The outer edge has a 60deg chamfer.
The hole needs minor rounding of the sharp edges with a file or burr, so it won't cut into the bushes.

The tube measurements are -
ID - 93.7mm
OD - 101.4mm
Length - 18mm
Wall thickness - 3.8mm
(These measurements are exact to 0.1mm, however the tube was purchased as 4mm wall thickness and 90mm nominal bore).

The disk needs to be placed into the underside of the upper section, with the chamfer side up. The placement of this section is critical as it needs to be central and parallel with the top face of the upper mount.
Note, when I say top face, I do not mean the flange which mounts to the subframe, I mean the smaller cup section where the shock comes through.

Once positioned, this can then be fully welded from the underside. Welding from the top side is not necessary.

You can then position the tube to the underside of the top mount, again, making sure it is central and parallel with the top cup face.
This can also be fully welded, inside and out.

Lastly, the spring saddle can be positioned to the tube, this is very easy as the OD's of each piece is almost identical.
At this point you can double check to to make sure the top face is central and parallel with the bottom spring saddle face.

This can then be welded on the outside.

Obviously I thoroughly cleaned mine with wire brush and thinners and then painted.

To everyone -
For final assembly, you will need the bushes mentioned in my last post, either poly or rubber.

When assembling the strut, the pieces go as follows -
1 - Original shock
2 - Original bump rubber
3 - Original metal cup
4 - New rubber or poly bush (with boss facing up)
5 - New re-manufactured shock mount
6 - New rubber or poly bush (with boss facing down)
7 - Original Metal wave washer
8 - Original lock nut

That's it.

Fire away with questions.