The Broken Door Lock Actuator Was Fixable !

XR6-VCT-2000 · 20-02-2007, 10:08 AM

Well I got this morning off, and decided to finaly check out the actuator on my car.

The usual story with it, it would not lock and was making a long click sorta sound, i've had the bar inside the door disconnected from the door handle for about 2 months now and I was sick of leaning over to opening the door for the missus all the time , and bugger if i was gonna pay around $150 for a small part like that ! ( unless i realy had too ! ) .lol

Anyway, I pulled it apart and found (in my case anyway) that the wormgear that drives the lock mechanism was broken / cheap plastic wormgear ! .

I cleaned the grease off it , prepped it , then superglued it back together.
It was actually a pretty clean break/snap and glued back perfectly - besides where it broke it doesn't use that part of the wormgear anyway , so it wouldn't of mattered if it didnt match perfect anyway. (it only uses about 2cm of the middle of the wormgear)

Then i carefully drilled a 1.5mm wide hole about 2.5cm deep down the but of the wormgear (starting from the larger gear end), then stuck a 1.5mm wide hot nail down the hole to soften it a bit, then screwed a 2mm wide 2.5cm long screw down the but of it to support it and stop it from breaking again.

Seems nice and solid and is working like a charm again, Saved myself some $$

here's the before and after pics

BEFORE:

AFTER:

EA2BA · 20-02-2007, 10:17 AM

There is thread some where about this issue as it also affects the BA's, I recall you can get a metal gear or something to hopefully prevent the issue happening again.

XR6-VCT-2000 · 20-02-2007, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EA2BA

There is thread some where about this issue as it also affects the BA's, I recall you can get a metal gear or something to hopefully prevent the issue happening again.

That would be good, i wonder how much ford charge for the metal wormgear ? and what the part# is ? . Oh well i saved myself a few $ for now anyway. cheers.

private9 · 20-02-2007, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR6-VCT-2000

That would be good, i wonder how much ford charge for the metal wormgear ? and what the part# is ? . Oh well i saved myself a few $ for now anyway. cheers.

I don't think Ford sell the gear seperately. I recently did a ring around and Ford sell the BA actuator with AU adapter loom new for $159. I did find a wrecker who sells the same part new with loom for $125, but I can't find their bloody number now - they were in Moorabbin though.

old fordnut · 20-02-2007, 10:55 PM

Theres something wrong with the actuator in my AU. when I press the button on the remote it opens all the doors except the drivers door. Is this the same thing?

XR06T · 19-01-2008, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EA2BA

There is thread some where about this issue as it also affects the BA's, I recall you can get a metal gear or something to hopefully prevent the issue happening again.

does anyone know anything about metal ones?

2 of mine have broken at the same time and i'll be buggered if im gonna pay $100 for a 2c part! i have checked the tutorials for fixing broken ones but i dont have the tools (or the skill!) to not make a complete mess of the little part.

any info appreciated

**GasoLane** · 19-01-2008, 08:32 PM

I had the same problem with a back door http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11203520 and took the easy way out.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-AU-BA-DO...QQcmdZViewItem

Either use the buy it now or ring the number in the pics and talk to Grant.

Brilliant service, the new lock assembly was sent to me via express post along with a prepaid express post bag to send the old one back.

Grand total for me $65 !

Seeing as he's in Glen Waverley you Melb guys could probably pick it up and save the $10 postage

InfernoSR · 19-01-2008, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GasOLane

I had the same problem with a back door http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11203520 and took the easy way out.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-AU-BA-DO...QQcmdZViewItem

Either use the buy it now or ring the number in the pics and talk to Grant.

Brilliant service, the new lock assembly was sent to me via express post along with a prepaid express post bag to send the old one back.

Grand total for me $65 !

Seeing as he's in Glen Waverley you Melb guys could probably pick it up and save the $10 postage

Thanks for the link... Makes you wonder how they are reconditioned... i might have to PM him...

This problem is also something i need to do...

:

**GasoLane** · 19-01-2008, 11:03 PM

He has, or had, an injection moulding business I think, also does gas strut recharging.

PM? I know Grant was thinking of joining AFF, but didn't think he had yet.

XR6-VCT-2000 · 20-02-2007, 10:04 PM

By the way , if anyone wants a 'How To' document with pics etc , on how to repair the actuator , just say - otherwise (not wanting to sound stubourn) i won't and haven't bothered unless someone requests it ;) . cheers.

peterban · 20-02-2007, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR6-VCT-2000

By the way , if anyone wants a 'How To' document with pics etc , on how to repair the actuator , just say - otherwise (not wanting to sound stubourn) i won't and haven't bothered unless someone requests it ;) . cheers.

I would be interested in a how to
Regards
Peter

XR6-VCT-2000 · 21-02-2007, 12:26 AM

old fordnut, it sounds like the same problem. From what i can tell from the wormgear setup inside the actuator , it looks like it is impossible for the actuator to lock the door when the wormgear is broken. I suppose you could test yours by locking all the doors with the keypad remote only !, then check to see if your drivers door is actually locked , if it is still unlocked then i would probably say yes this is your problem too.

Peterban, ok then as requested. As i have allready repaired mine i will do a how to with detailed pc drawings ( as i didn't take photo's of the whole process ) , it's a pretty easy job though ;) . I'll post it soon, cheers.

XR6-VCT-2000 · 21-02-2007, 12:41 AM

Ah well wouldn't you know it ! , after doing a search on here for a picture of a actuator ( to save me drawing 1 ) , i came across this document by Russel. It seems he has had the same problem to and already fully documented this , pretty much the same fix job except i just used a drill and hot nail instead of a lathe

. Check it out here http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=320 . cheers.

peterban · 21-02-2007, 05:44 PM

Thanks, I think a lot of people will try this fix as it can save you over $100

nikos · 22-02-2007, 12:12 PM

I have the exact same prob, the drivers door only works with the key. When I use the remote, the other 3 work fine, and sometimes I see a slight wiggle on the drivers lock. Pulled apart the actuator this morning, and to my suprise the worm gear is fine. Tested it with the +-12V thing (listed in the tute) and when I do this the motor doesn't seem to have enough ponies to overcome the spring pressure. Maybe the motor needs cleaning or replacing? Just wanted to ask first before I pull it out...

Cheers Nic

XR6-VCT-2000 · 22-02-2007, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikos

I have the exact same prob, the drivers door only works with the key. When I use the remote, the other 3 work fine, and sometimes I see a slight wiggle on the drivers lock. Pulled apart the actuator this morning, and to my suprise the worm gear is fine. Tested it with the +-12V thing (listed in the tute) and when I do this the motor doesn't seem to have enough ponies to overcome the spring pressure. Maybe the motor needs cleaning or replacing? Just wanted to ask first before I pull it out...

Cheers Nic

Yeah the brushes in the small electric motor could be worn, maybe try take out the wormgear anyway and power the small electric motor with no load on it , then put you finger lightly against the small gear on the electric motor while powered/spinning to see if there is much resistance. It looks like a pretty much standard 12v motor that you could get cheap from Jaycar or Dicksmiths for a few dollars.

You could also test the loom that connects to the actuator with a multimeter , check the voltage and amp rating and compare it to a working loom. Or even plug that loom into another working loom just to test it , to make sure it isn't the loom not supplying enough power. cheers.

nikos · 22-02-2007, 05:14 PM

Haha, just removed the motor, hooked it up to +12V and it only turns for a coupla seconds, then dies! Let alone putting a finger on it. Can't get it open so i'll look for another 1.

Funny how it happens to just one out of three doors, hope the others aren't on their way out!

Cheers Nic

Edit: Just called dicksmith, they sell the motors for like $2. Better than $170!

XR6-VCT-2000 · 22-02-2007, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikos

Haha, just removed the motor, hooked it up to +12V and it only turns for a coupla seconds, then dies! Let alone putting a finger on it. Can't get it open so i'll look for another 1.

Funny how it happens to just one out of three doors, hope the others aren't on their way out!

Cheers Nic

Edit: Just called dicksmith, they sell the motors for like $2. Better than $170!

Ah cool , least its nothing to major , i almost bet my left nut that you could get a replacement motor to fit from jaycar or dicksmiths for around $5. gl . cheers mate

EDIT: sorry only just noticed at the bottom of your post that you said you rang dicksmiths , and that they have them for around $2. Oh well i guess my left nut is safe ..lol

nikos · 27-02-2007, 04:53 PM

DAMN Dicksmith I went in to get the motor and they DO NOT have any that fit. Neither do Jaycar. Also went to a wrecker and they wouldn't let me grab just the motor, just the whole actuator for $60, bugger that.

Does anyone have a stuffed actuator lying around that still has a good motor? I would love to grab one, trying to fix my motor is a last resort.

Cheers nic

XR6-VCT-2000 · 27-02-2007, 05:29 PM

Just use a smaller motor if thats all they have ( so long as its still a 12v motor ) and stick something around it to mount/jam it in place maybe ?

nikos · 28-02-2007, 12:29 PM

Yeah, thought about that, its also a last resort. But looks like I might have to eh!

Eu-GenixX · 20-01-2008, 10:12 AM

i just paid the 50 bucks from the wreckers to replace my rear door one... fairly easy job...

XR06T · 21-01-2008, 11:41 AM

what kind of business would be up for making a metal copy you guys think? or would it be a too small job or too fiddly.
im guessing replacing it with a metal one may find the next weakest link in the system also..

fordman_01 · 21-01-2008, 11:51 AM

iv got the same problem with my car but how do you know which door accurator is broken?? the driver door? or do you have to check them all???

**GasoLane** · 21-01-2008, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordman_01

iv got the same problem with my car but how do you know which door accurator is broken?? the driver door? or do you have to check them all???

Find the door with the problem and ...TA DAH! thats the one

fordman_01 · 21-01-2008, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GasOLane

Find the door with the problem and ...TA DAH! thats the one

haha thanks mate

Laminge · 21-01-2008, 12:38 PM

Bugger

Wish I had taken pictures when I fixed mine the xr

I actually got a screw and used it dead centre to join the bits together as you have done, never let go again.

If you can take the time, draw up a document and we will load it into the technical section

XR06T · 22-01-2008, 11:27 AM

minge, there is a doc in the tech section, was put in there by russel.

linky for those playing at home!

i dont have a decent drill but and am highly likely to do more damage than good haha

bjc · 07-02-2008, 10:56 PM

Someone please make alloy ones or sell the plastic parts.
The price is just to much of a joke for a 50c part.

XR06T · 08-02-2008, 11:01 AM

what type of place do you think would be able to make up alloy ones? somewhere like a fabricating company, or are they too small?