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Old 03-12-2009, 09:29 AM   #1
Fredo
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Cool Car not decelerating quickly

:

Help please. Yesterday arvo and this morning my car has decided to not decelerate really sowly once I take my foot off the 'GO' pedal.

Also, when I started it this morning (no foot on the throttle) the car revs to about 2500rpm then slowly comes down to idle.

Me no likey . . . What going on? Any ideas?

Fredo

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:- Using 95 RON Fuel (DONE -easiest upgrade of all) :- XR5 Springs (DONE) :- Lower air box removal (DONE) :- K & N Panel Air Filter (DONE)
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:31 PM   #2
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It's normal unfortunately. Do a search of this board for "hanging revs"

from memory it's something to do with polution control. The idea of bringing the revs down slowly is so the fuel mixture doesn't spike and go rich and dump unburnt fuel into the exhaust (this is why XR5's bang and crack between gears when accelerating hard )
this would have been done to meet tough euro emission laws that were most likely passed after the zetec and duratec motors were developed, hence the quick fix. (did you know the zetec motor is a direct decendent of the Kent motor that, among other things, was in the rs1600 and rs2000 escorts? How's that for lineage!!!)

A few ideas were thrown around on how to get rid of it, but it was all a little dodgy or not quite a deffinite fix)

I remember in my LR it was really bad for it and it eventually got to a point where it would nearly stall after coming to a stop. I tracked it down to a PCV hose that had puckered (slightly more accurate description than pinched :P ) and was messing with the vaccum levels that the computer uses to control the throttle.
Replacing it fixed the stalling, but the revs still hung.
It's noticably worse with the A/C on.

It makes fast downshifts a little jerky but you do get used to it. Rev matching (same principal as heel-toeing just without braking) helps smooth things out a lot I found too.




.... Wow that got wordy.
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:23 AM   #3
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Humm . . not sure about this TJ mate.
I trust you but I think I might have a prob.
I reckon its only just started doing it and when I take the foot off the revs stay there a bit to long.
More brake needed and I reckon its damgerous.
I'll get it checked out just for peace of mind.
Thanks Mate.

Fredo
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Just remember, amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic!

Late 2005 LS CL, 5spd Manual, 5 Door, Titanium Grey
To Do List:-
:- Using 95 RON Fuel (DONE -easiest upgrade of all) :- XR5 Springs (DONE) :- Lower air box removal (DONE) :- K & N Panel Air Filter (DONE)
:- 2.25" Cat Back (DONE) :- DBA Brake upgrade (DONE)
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:13 AM   #4
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Fredo if its doing things different from before then get it checked out.
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:16 PM   #5
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Could be the throttle body sticking....
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:28 AM   #6
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Sitting at lights this morning and it just started reving to about 2500rpms until I put my foot on the clutch!
:
Gotta be a Gremlin or ghost or something.

Sticky throttle body? Dunno, why would it just sstart reving on it own?

Fredo
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Just remember, amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic!

Late 2005 LS CL, 5spd Manual, 5 Door, Titanium Grey
To Do List:-
:- Using 95 RON Fuel (DONE -easiest upgrade of all) :- XR5 Springs (DONE) :- Lower air box removal (DONE) :- K & N Panel Air Filter (DONE)
:- 2.25" Cat Back (DONE) :- DBA Brake upgrade (DONE)
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:20 AM   #7
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Throttle position sensor?
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Old 07-12-2009, 03:59 PM   #8
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Haha. I need to read posts a little better... hahaha.
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Old 07-12-2009, 07:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
Sitting at lights this morning and it just started reving to about 2500rpms until I put my foot on the clutch!
I'd definitely get that checked out! If there is no error light 'on,' on your dash, you will need to go for a test drive with a mechanic. If you just drop the car off with no light on, and the problem is only intermittent, you will probably get a report that all is OK, as the car isn't throwing a code.
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Old 09-12-2009, 12:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DZFord
I'd definitely get that checked out! If there is no error light 'on,' on your dash, you will need to go for a test drive with a mechanic. If you just drop the car off with no light on, and the problem is only intermittent, you will probably get a report that all is OK, as the car isn't throwing a code.
Cheers DZ,
Went to 3 mechanics today and asked about it. Here's what I got from them:-
1. "Dunno Mate, might be some crap in the throttle body or that thing stuck on the side of it . . . "
2. "Coil Pack is stuffed . . . "
3. (Ford Service) "Ah, reckon you just need a new battery . . . "

What do I do now??

Fredo
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Just remember, amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic!

Late 2005 LS CL, 5spd Manual, 5 Door, Titanium Grey
To Do List:-
:- Using 95 RON Fuel (DONE -easiest upgrade of all) :- XR5 Springs (DONE) :- Lower air box removal (DONE) :- K & N Panel Air Filter (DONE)
:- 2.25" Cat Back (DONE) :- DBA Brake upgrade (DONE)
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Old 09-12-2009, 06:00 PM   #11
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Only time a coil pack would need changing as far as I am concerned is if the ignition is breaking down, usually starts up at high revs and then works its way down.

As for Ford Service saying it's a new battery, did they chuck a tester on the battery to see if it was this.

Perhaps if the plug min the TPS has gunk in it (don't know how) maybe spray some contact cleaner in the plug and let is dry out and see if that helps. Does your car have Cruise Control fitted, because that may be playing up as well.
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Old 09-12-2009, 07:07 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Fredo
Cheers DZ,
Went to 3 mechanics today and asked about it. Here's what I got from them:-
1. "Dunno Mate, might be some crap in the throttle body or that thing stuck on the side of it . . . "
2. "Coil Pack is stuffed . . . "
3. (Ford Service) "Ah, reckon you just need a new battery . . . "
That sucks! I'd be leaning towards the throttle body theory. Try disconnecting your intake hose from the the throttle body and seeing if it is dirty or anything is stick in there.
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Old 11-12-2009, 02:52 PM   #13
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According to the local Ford Service types I have a split vacuum hose under or behind the inlet maniford.

Oh goodie . . . 4 hours labour to change a $5 hose . . yippee to me!!!

Fredo
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Just remember, amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic!

Late 2005 LS CL, 5spd Manual, 5 Door, Titanium Grey
To Do List:-
:- Using 95 RON Fuel (DONE -easiest upgrade of all) :- XR5 Springs (DONE) :- Lower air box removal (DONE) :- K & N Panel Air Filter (DONE)
:- 2.25" Cat Back (DONE) :- DBA Brake upgrade (DONE)
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Old 11-12-2009, 04:59 PM   #14
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So what was that like a $400 job in the end?

Sucks balls
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:10 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by mohit
So what was that like a $400 job in the end?

Sucks balls
$485 . . . and I spoke to the mechanic who reckons he'll quit if he ever has to do another one.
His hands were cut to bits from doing the job.
It was the crankcase vacuum (breather?) hose under the intake manifold.
About 4 inches long with a nice 2 inch split in it. Why didn't they make it metal!!!
The hose actually cost $65. :ticking:
$420 Labour.

Fredo
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Just remember, amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic!

Late 2005 LS CL, 5spd Manual, 5 Door, Titanium Grey
To Do List:-
:- Using 95 RON Fuel (DONE -easiest upgrade of all) :- XR5 Springs (DONE) :- Lower air box removal (DONE) :- K & N Panel Air Filter (DONE)
:- 2.25" Cat Back (DONE) :- DBA Brake upgrade (DONE)
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Old 12-12-2009, 02:11 PM   #16
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Glad you got it fixed
Thanks for letting us know
great for future reference.
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Old 06-01-2010, 03:53 PM   #17
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The ford dealers are hell , they told me that the focus stays at 2500rpm to warm up, i had the same problem as you and i asked them to look at it before i took it in for a service, when i picked up my car i asked him about it and he was like "oh i didnt look at it... but its normal for them to idle a 2500rpm" im not a mechanic and even I know that cars are supposed to idle at 800-900rpm
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:25 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirkamus
"oh i didnt look at it... but its normal for them to idle a 2500rpm" im not a mechanic and even I know that cars are supposed to idle at 800-900rpm
I don't think thats right . . . mine idles at about @1100rpm first thing in the morning. Once warm - @850-900rpm.

I might need to be a bit clearer on the symptoms I had.
At start up (hot or cold) it would rev immediately to 2500 - 3000rpm.
Driving along the road it felt like a random misfire.
Under acceleration it felt okay.
Under deceleration, (ie. coming up to a red light) sometimes it would come down to idle as you would expect, sometimes it would touch 900rpm then increase to 2500.
Sometimes it wouldn't come down past the 2500 unless I put the clutch in.
Very random.

Does that make sense?
Fredo
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Just remember, amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic!

Late 2005 LS CL, 5spd Manual, 5 Door, Titanium Grey
To Do List:-
:- Using 95 RON Fuel (DONE -easiest upgrade of all) :- XR5 Springs (DONE) :- Lower air box removal (DONE) :- K & N Panel Air Filter (DONE)
:- 2.25" Cat Back (DONE) :- DBA Brake upgrade (DONE)
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Old 07-01-2010, 02:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredo
I don't think thats right . . . mine idles at about @1100rpm first thing in the morning. Once warm - @850-900rpm.

I might need to be a bit clearer on the symptoms I had.
At start up (hot or cold) it would rev immediately to 2500 - 3000rpm.
Driving along the road it felt like a random misfire.
Under acceleration it felt okay.
Under deceleration, (ie. coming up to a red light) sometimes it would come down to idle as you would expect, sometimes it would touch 900rpm then increase to 2500.
Sometimes it wouldn't come down past the 2500 unless I put the clutch in.
Very random.

Does that make sense?
Fredo
Yeah your problems were different with mine, the problem i also had with mine was
1. When i accelerated hard the GO pedal would vibrate
2. Car would idle at 2500prm for as long as i drove it sometimes hours, bye bye fuel :(
3.Car would hold gears even after taking foot off GO pedal, id then put it back on and rather than changing gear it would stay in the same one (mainly had this problem with 2nd)

then thats when i took it to ford and they said its all normal... when they could of just been honest and told me that they didn't look at it.
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Old 08-01-2010, 09:50 AM   #20
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So what is the next plan then Mate?
Take it to a different dealer?
Not much else you can do really is there.
Fredo
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Just remember, amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic!

Late 2005 LS CL, 5spd Manual, 5 Door, Titanium Grey
To Do List:-
:- Using 95 RON Fuel (DONE -easiest upgrade of all) :- XR5 Springs (DONE) :- Lower air box removal (DONE) :- K & N Panel Air Filter (DONE)
:- 2.25" Cat Back (DONE) :- DBA Brake upgrade (DONE)
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