Common Problems with the AU??

[schrammy]

Hey guys

My passanger window wont go up, it went down now it wont work? thought it may be the switch as this is a problem but i cant put it up with the driver controls either?

Any ideas?

Cheers
Ben

[lohnro]

If neither switch will move the window it is probably the motor. I have replaced mine. You have to buy the whole assembly from a second hand parts place. Not expensive considering what it does. It is tricky to remove and install but not hard. Good idea to lubricate the runners with silicon spray to ease the tension on the motor. Good luck

[Skeg37]

My park brake light is fading on and off while idling. I know the handbrake needs adjusting and probably due for a new set of pads, could this be the problem.

[lohnro]

I reckon the switch under the foot pedal needs changing. There is nothing else in the circuit that will make it intermittent.

[XYGTHO]

Originally Posted by george7

Did the production of the series III get rid of most of these common problems with the SI and II

Also qurious if this is the case.

[AMB]

Originally Posted by Skeg37

My park brake light is fading on and off while idling. I know the handbrake needs adjusting and probably due for a new set of pads, could this be the problem.

The park brake switch (located on the lever) is wired directly to earth near the lever. Probably either the earth is bad, or the switch itself has bad/dirty contacts.

[shayne93]

Originally Posted by tags84

mate this happened to me 3 times in my EL that i owned for 12months! then i got my AU and 2 months later it happened in that so i bought 2 switches....... and a bloody of a thing to change, upside down the the foot well lol

I've done 2 in 2 Au's your dead right, dog of a job!

[BJB]

Drivers door lock on AU3. Sometimes it will lock with the key, others it refuses to lock. Up down, back and forwards, sometimes it works sometimes it won't. Are the door lock actuators a common problem. Fix? Cost?

The remote isn't working either.

[Mechan1k]

Common ... If buying new ... you need to get a B-series actuator ... with an AU jump-loom separate.

can get them from wreckers for cheaper ... but it could fail the next day ... or last for years.

New price from Ford about $130-ish
Used price ... not sure. Ask FTG Autosalvage (site sponsor) ... the guys will be able to help you out.

[Swedishmoose]

Hi there,


I was wondering if it is normal that I can just pull the automatic gear lever from "neutral" into "drive" and from "drive" into "3" without pressing the button.

I have to use the release button to put the lever from "neutral" into "reverse" and from "3" to "2" and from "2" to "1" which makes sense to me.

And another small thing...

is it normal that only the driver"s sun visor mirror has a sliding cover and the sun visor on the passenger side has just got a plain mirror without a sliding cover ?


thanks for any information


cheers

The Moose

[divine_afg]

Originally Posted by Swedishmoose

Hi there,


I was wondering if it is normal that I can just pull the automatic gear lever from "neutral" into "drive" and from "drive" into "3" without pressing the button.

I have to use the release button to put the lever from "neutral" into "reverse" and from "3" to "2" and from "2" to "1" which makes sense to me.

And another small thing...

is it normal that only the driver"s sun visor mirror has a sliding cover and the sun visor on the passenger side has just got a plain mirror without a sliding cover ?


thanks for any information


cheers

The Moose

All is Well.... Enjoy. Drivers sun visor has cover to protect your eyes against any reflections if you were using it. Drivers are are More important than Passengers lol.

[BJB]

Our Series 3 diff got noisy just before 60K and got worse .Ford didn't want to know about it as it was out of warranty and we haven't fixed it as yet. 117K now.

[Beer Baron]

Originally Posted by BJB

Our Series 3 diff got noisy just before 60K and got worse .Ford didn't want to know about it as it was out of warranty and we haven't fixed it as yet. 117K now.

I bought mine with a noisy diff at 180k, Now 250k and still the same.

[Swedishmoose]

Originally Posted by divine_afg

All is Well.... Enjoy. Drivers sun visor has cover to protect your eyes against any reflections if you were using it. Drivers are are More important than Passengers lol.

Thanks mate....

I was just wondering about the gear lever....

Thanks for replying

passengers have to sit down, buckle up and shut up lol.....or walk

[divine_afg]

Originally Posted by Swedishmoose

Thanks mate....

I was just wondering about the gear lever....

Thanks for replying

passengers have to sit down, buckle up and shut up lol.....or walk

I loved that fact that you could down shift without using the release button, made overtaking easier. One more think to add on the sunvisor thing - cost cutting

[roycey92]

Originally Posted by Beer Baron

I bought mine with a noisy diff at 180k, Now 250k and still the same.

my diff has been leaking for about 6 years on my AU 3 ute and i havent even checked it once it likes to do the old clunk but

[DaleBro65]

Hey Guy's, just wandering if anyone knows or has an idea about this. Driving my AU111 XR8 the other day and it was down to 65kms left till empty so I stopped at the first servo I saw and filled it up and it runs on 98octane. Hoped in it and drove about half a km and it stopped dead in the middle of the road and wouldn't start for about 5 mins. After 5mins it started and hasn't missed a beat yet. Any ideas what could be wrong?... Trying to put the wife at ease before she drives it again. Cheers

[falcon75]

Originally Posted by sbutler

I had a ripper one day! the left window wouldn't work it was stuck down, so I rang FTe service and the guy said, "get this" press the window switch up & down 31 yes 31 times, that will fix it!!! yeah right :******1: anyway I did this, and bugger me on the 31st time the bloody thing worked!! : Beats the hell outta me. I dont know if anyone else has had this..

Yer we had the same bloody problem with the same solution

[falcon75]

Originally Posted by Auslandau

Have an AU 1 guia and only problem has been the windows sticking, as previously has said. But the rear diff is starting to make the 'Taxi whine' and is a bit annoying, and at only 90000 km but apart from that is the best Ford I have had for lack of problems.......touch wood!!!! With the VCT, it does hoon along a bit as well :voldar02:
The wagon is an AU 11 dead standard and just came back from a quick trip to N.T. and back to Melb, with again no probs. Windows are bit annoying in that one too!

Ive got an AUIII XR that has developed the same sound from the diff at 75000km. Have you any idea what it is?

[falcon75]

Originally Posted by Casper

Based on some suggestions from Bucknaked, this thread is to share your experiances with problems that have occured with your AU.
Be them common (like the shock mounts on the IRS models) or not so common (a dead MAP sensor making the car run rich and lose power), share it all here

The problem, the solution, the cost.


This is not a "I have a problem, need advice" thread, it is purely for those that have had a problem, found the cause and got it sorted. These experiances may save us all a lot of time, headaches and money.

Yer my AUIII XR had its shocker mount come through the leather back seat (fixed under warranty), was not happy when my son usually sits there. Ford said it was a common problem.

[Venomous1]

Originally Posted by DaleBro65

Hey Guy's, just wandering if anyone knows or has an idea about this. Driving my AU111 XR8 the other day and it was down to 65kms left till empty so I stopped at the first servo I saw and filled it up and it runs on 98octane. Hoped in it and drove about half a km and it stopped dead in the middle of the road and wouldn't start for about 5 mins. After 5mins it started and hasn't missed a beat yet. Any ideas what could be wrong?... Trying to put the wife at ease before she drives it again. Cheers

Possibly some dirt in the tank shouldn't be a problem now.

[FTe342]

Originally Posted by DaleBro65

Hey Guy's, just wandering if anyone knows or has an idea about this. Driving my AU111 XR8 the other day and it was down to 65kms left till empty so I stopped at the first servo I saw and filled it up and it runs on 98octane. Hoped in it and drove about half a km and it stopped dead in the middle of the road and wouldn't start for about 5 mins. After 5mins it started and hasn't missed a beat yet. Any ideas what could be wrong?... Trying to put the wife at ease before she drives it again. Cheers

When filling only round up to the next $ after the first click off. If you keep topping it till no more fits in you end up with fuel in the purge canister and causes it to cut out

[Wolfghost]

Au2 xr8 2001 model was missing at idle, not so noticable under revs. Had efi dude out to repair problem, said it was computer and afs sensor so soughted new afs and sent comp away for repair, unable to fault old computer, sent back, fitted parts same thing,, then said was O2 sensors, replaced them, same dilemma. didnt call him back. Sent car to new mechanic. explained problem, missing and a vacuum leak i cannot find.
After test they said i had a coil issue, said i replaced coils twice in 2 months wasted another 1000 dollars on there recommendation, and the idiot proceeded to tell me, that I dont have a CAMSHAFT SYNCHRONIZER (or sensor) because i have pushrods. I wont tell you what i thought and said. took home noticed harmonic balancer had slipped, replaced, still same issue.Camshaft synronizer is about to be replaced.

Replaced parts list for a miss
3 sets coil packs
2 sets leads
2 sets plugs
1 computer
1 air flow sensor
2 O2 sensors
1 Harmonic Balancer
full set intake gaskets, valley, planem, throttle body etc
plus labour at 104.00 p/h ( the joys of a mining town price but not working at a mine)

and annoying the wife by having to use her (corolla). been 8 weeks now and looks like it will be ongoing until i can find someone who is capable of diagnosing. will let you know when its running as it should

[Skeg37]

VEHICLE - AU sedan 98 model XR6
PROBLEM - brown Frothy Sludge In Radiator Overflow
DIAGNOSIS - Cracked Transmission Cooler Pipe Allowing Transmission Oil To Leak Into Radiator.
SOLUTION - Transmission Cooler Pipe Replacement Kit Or New Radiator (chose New Radiator)
COST - $350 For Radiator And $32 For Top Up Transmission Fluid

RESULT- Drives Beautifully And Cool......

[BJB]

AU111 SR. Coolant leak around the thermostat housing. Fixed twice under warranty.

Noisy diff just prior to 60K and still there. Ford refused to fix it.

Rust in lower boot lid ( possible leak of water from factory spoiler.)

Drivers door locking mechanism failing.

Power windows have had their moments but still work.

Drives good, auto and engine are fine.

Not buying a new Ford again as Ford Warranty Policy is questionable.

[T3man]

Originally Posted by BJB

Not buying a new Ford again as Ford Warranty Policy is questionable.

Not really questionable mate - just downright useless in most cases. It's simply not worth the stress it causes having them fix something over and over ... and it never gets fixed anyhow. Nowadays I just buy second hand and with the money I save I can afford to throw it into any repairs necessary and pay the right people the right money to have it done .. well ... right.

[BJB]

Originally Posted by T3man

Not really questionable mate - just downright useless in most cases. It's simply not worth the stress it causes having them fix something over and over ... and it never gets fixed anyhow. Nowadays I just buy second hand and with the money I save I can afford to throw it into any repairs necessary and pay the right people the right money to have it done .. well ... right.

I heard that Ford Warranty issues are outsourced to a group commissioned to filter the claims. I guess if they can keep the claims down then they get better bonuses. Urban myth , not sure. What they don't realise is that reputations ruin companies, and Ford Australia are struggling to sell the Falcon at the moment and no wonder. If you have a faulty product , then deal with it. Good service will get people back to the show rooms. My cl;aim was rejected because I didn't have the car serviced enough with them. The diff is noisy but it has been this way for over 70K now so it probably won't break too soon, still who sells cars these days with diffs that develop a noise at under 60 K. We don't tow, it is driven sensibly. Another thing, my work had XR 8's that were always being faulted for various issues. The local dealer would just treat as a regular customer and try and book us in. Hell no, emergency vehicle mate. The local Holden dealer would move hell and high water to accommodate us and therefore we prefer the Lion over the Blue oval. Downtime is a drag.

Ford Aus wrote to me later as a valued customer to see if I would be interested in the FG series they were releasing. You have to be joking was the answer.

[Skeg37]

I have an Au XR6 1998 Adaptive shift auto. Once my car gets warm it stalls as soon as I put it in gear. I have been told it is a solenoid in the auto transmission and will cost around $450. Does this sound right? Is there any other solutions/suggestions?

[Wolfghost]

Finally found the problem 2 months later, poor falcon been parked up for months, one broken valve spring, they are all being replaced at we speak
and should have me car back this weekend.

[Beer Baron]

Originally Posted by Skeg37

I have an Au XR6 1998 Adaptive shift auto. Once my car gets warm it stalls as soon as I put it in gear. I have been told it is a solenoid in the auto transmission and will cost around $450. Does this sound right? Is there any other solutions/suggestions?

Ask what solenoid it is. There is a big price different between the solenoids. Doesn't sound outrageous though.