TDCI Focus

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by Russ

I find mine not too bad but it's far from freezing. My understanding is that most car airconditioning units are only designed to keep the temp inside the car around 10 deg cooler than the outside temp. Window tint will also help keep the inside temp of the car down and is beneficial to the air con operation as well. If you don't already have window tint it something to consider

How much is it roughly for darkest legal? I assume a few of you guys here would have tint on your cars?

[ConradP]

Depends on where you go but you'd be looking at a few hundred, I got mine done when I got the car through the dealer so not too sure.

[Turbodiesel]

Around $250 for a decent job. I've never owned a car without tint, it's a must have for me.

Just make sure you check it afterwards, some installers seem to think bubbles are normal.

[Franco Cozzo]

I'm probably going to go through tint a car in Sunbury, I'm going to ring up for a quote tomorrow.

They've got two tints there, Octane and Midnight Express? Whats the difference?

So far I've amassed:

- Eibach pro-kit springs
- 22mm Whiteline adjustable rear swaybar and assorted camber kit and links
- Code:RED CAI

Now, I'm thinking about changing the OEM tyres out for some Continental's and looking at the intercooler and high flow cat.

I'm going to collect everything, then i think it'd be better to have everything done at once, only one labor cost then.

[Franco Cozzo]

Anyone know if Mazda 3 stuff is interchangable with our Focus?

[ConradP]

Originally Posted by Big Damo

Anyone know if Mazda 3 stuff is interchangable with our Focus?

Some should be, not 100% on what though, like xforce make an exhaust for the 3, but not the focus, they can be used on either though. just look into whatever you're after i guess.

[Turbodiesel]

Well the downpipe and cat are now done and are free-flowing.

First impressions:
The car wasn't loud enough with the stock cat and straight pipe but I can safely say that is no longer a problem. With all the whistling and air blowing it sort of sounds like I'm driving Darth Vader on steroids


Can't really test the performance much in this rain but it feels even more responsive and torquey than before.

[Chicka]

Originally Posted by Turbodiesel

Well the downpipe and cat are now done and are free-flowing.

First impressions:
The car wasn't loud enough with the stock cat and straight pipe but I can safely say that is no longer a problem. With all the whistling and air blowing it sort of sounds like I'm driving Darth Vader on steroids


Can't really test the performance much in this rain but it feels even more responsive and torquey than before.

Goodonya mate...sounds great..
Just watch that torque though ! I have just had to shell out $ 503.00 for 3 x Engine mounts for my 2007 TDCI...plus fitting costs..(43,000 kms)Pretty RS I reckon, only 6 months out of warranty. Maybe, the torque of the TDCI is too much for them to handle...Only know ...I ain't happy!!!! All the best
Chicka

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by Turbodiesel

Well the downpipe and cat are now done and are free-flowing.

First impressions:
The car wasn't loud enough with the stock cat and straight pipe but I can safely say that is no longer a problem. With all the whistling and air blowing it sort of sounds like I'm driving Darth Vader on steroids


Can't really test the performance much in this rain but it feels even more responsive and torquey than before.

How much did it cost?

I find the turbo in my car very quiet, sometimes you can hear it with the window down and giving it a bit of curry, slight whoosing noise.

Also does anyone think the OEM goodyear NCT 5 tyres are completely rubbish? They don't grip real well and they squeal fairly easily. Not only that but it doesn't take much to spin them, even in torque limited 1st gear, taking off with 1/4 throttle will see the front right spin.

Also I'm finding the brakes on my car, they're not too great, you push the pedal down, get the whole leaning forward in your seat thing, but you don't come to a stop quickly, it seems to nose dive but not really stop, I guess it could also be the tyres affecting braking distance too. My WS Fiesta stops much better, but that might be because its a very light car.

[Turbodiesel]

It was similar to what I paid for the rear part of the exhaust originally, it depends on where you go. The place I go do a lot of diesel vehicles so they're pretty good. I think I'm just about done with upgrades now, not much else to do performance wise. It's a whole new car compared to stock.

The turbo is quiet because of the overly restrictive air intake, open that up and you'll hear it real good.

The Goodyears aren't great, but they aren't that bad either.

If you want to know what it sounds like, it's very similar to this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-kj0...eature=related

[Russ]

Originally Posted by Big Damo

How much did it cost?

I find the turbo in my car very quiet, sometimes you can hear it with the window down and giving it a bit of curry, slight whoosing noise.

Also does anyone think the OEM goodyear NCT 5 tyres are completely rubbish? They don't grip real well and they squeal fairly easily. Not only that but it doesn't take much to spin them, even in torque limited 1st gear, taking off with 1/4 throttle will see the front right spin.

Also I'm finding the brakes on my car, they're not too great, you push the pedal down, get the whole leaning forward in your seat thing, but you don't come to a stop quickly, it seems to nose dive but not really stop, I guess it could also be the tyres affecting braking distance too. My WS Fiesta stops much better, but that might be because its a very light car.

Don't forget you're also carrying more weight in front with the diesel engine, I find the brakes on my Zetec are OK but nothing like the brakes on my former GT TDI Golf, that had fantastic brakes for a stock set up A change of brake pads might help too Big Damo and if you can afford to upgrade the rotors that would more than likely give you even better results

[Ratmick]

Hi Guys,

Just de-lurking to say hello after spending the last couple of hours reading this thread.

Traded in my 2003 Magna on a 2010 LV MkII TDCi (ex-Ford Motor Co. exec vehicle) about a month ago. The Focus was first registered in May this year so it's still relatively new (albeit now slightly over 20,000km on the clock). Can't believe how well the car pulls compared to the Magna with a 1.5litre advantage, it's an absolute hoot to drive.

First manual gearbox since a VH Commodore in 1992 so it's been a bit of a learning curve, but it's all good even with two extra forward gears. I've now learnt to push the gearstick into first after coming out of reverse instead of selecting 3rd by default and stalling .

Car seems pretty good after reading some of the horror stories elsewhere on this forum, has some very minor scratches and I need to work out how to polish some powdery surface/substance off the rear taillights...advice on plastic polishing gratefully accepted.

My partner has a 2011 WT Fiesta LX TDCi sedan which she cruises around the Macedon Ranges in, so seeing we're both now Ford TDCi people I'm thinking this forum and the site in general may be quite handy going forward!

Anyway, it's been great reading.

Mick

[rand0mn00b]

the mazda 3 MPS which is a close-ish relative to the focus also has engine mounts going early. not sure if it's a common problem for the XR5

[marg99]

They probably use soft mounts to lessen the vibration at the expense of length of serviceable life. Its the sort of thing they will not see as a "problem"

[Franco Cozzo]

Went to start the Focus this morning, unlocks, key in, turn to ignition, radio comes on, go to start:


turns over once, makes a loud ticking noise.

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

Get the old mans car to jump start it, not enough current to start it but enough to turn it over.

F it, I took the Fiesta instead.

I get back, slowly roll out the driveway and down the street, dump the clutch in second gear and she fires into life, sweet. Got it idling now to charge the battery up.

I wonder why it went flat, I didn't leave any electrics on, no interior light, no radio, no lights, and I drove it for 2 hours on Friday?

If it doesn't start tomorrow morning, I'll take it back to Ford and they can check the battery.

[Franco Cozzo]

Took it for a drive, drove fine, turned it off, tried to start it again, tick tick tick tick, no go.

Going into Ford in Monday.

[Franco Cozzo]

http://youtu.be/Ph2Lg_jN1ro

Thats what it does, if a mod could merge my three posts that would be cool, thanks much.

[marg99]

Sounds like dodgy battery/connections or crook solenoid on starter motor. Try it with the headlights turned on and if they do not dim a lot when you try to crank, its probably connections on starter motor or the solenoid on the starter

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by marg99

Sounds like dodgy battery/connections or crook solenoid on starter motor. Try it with the headlights turned on and if they do not dim a lot when you try to crank, its probably connections on starter motor or the solenoid on the starter

Battery connections are fine, no corrosion and they're on solidly.

I haven't checked at the starter motor end though.

Tried the headlights then they dimmed heaps, it seems theres enough power to run the headlights, radio and everything on ignition, but not enough to turn the motor over.

[Martyvan]

Originally Posted by marg99

Sounds like dodgy battery/connections or crook solenoid on starter motor. Try it with the headlights turned on and if they do not dim a lot when you try to crank, its probably connections on starter motor or the solenoid on the starter

Thats actually very good information. I never thought to check something like that might make it easier to track down problems in the future....

[Franco Cozzo]

I couldn't even roll start it this morning, I had it booked into Ford, opened up the central locking, that worked, put it on ignition and no lights, nothing.

Rolled it out the driveway and down the hill, dumped it in second gear, still nothing.

Tried jump starting it with the old mans car, not enough juice to turn it over fast enough.

So I thought F it, and left it at the bottom of the hill on the side of the road and went to work in the old mans car.

I jump started it tonight with my new project car, then drove it straight down to Ford, they took it in.

I measured the voltage at the battery after a 50 minute drive, 10.92V, must have dropped a cell.

[Franco Cozzo]

Got it back today, faulty battery was replaced under warranty.

[DeKa]

Originally Posted by Big Damo

Got it back today, faulty battery was replaced under warranty.

My LV Focus battery died at 15 months too.. not under warranty as it's 12 months for the battery.

[Franco Cozzo]

Looks like the Focus will be on hold for the near future, as I've got myself a 1997 EL Fairmont Ghia to play around with.

So that means once my springs, sway and cold air intake are in, that will be it as the spare money is now going on the new Fairmont, which needs a lot of work.

[kevino]

The original Goodyear NCTs on the 08 TDCI are at 72000 due for replacement soon .
Michelin Pilot Sport 3 ,s at $205 or Bridgestone Adrenalin at $209 (stock 205/55/16 size.)
I ,ve tried the Toyos on my wifes petrol focus-they lack grip.
Whats your thoughts-Bridgestone or Michelin??

[Russ]

Originally Posted by kevino

The original Goodyear NCTs on the 08 TDCI are at 72000 due for replacement soon .
Michelin Pilot Sport 3 ,s at $205 or Bridgestone Adrenalin at $209 (stock 205/55/16 size.)
I ,ve tried the Toyos on my wifes petrol focus-they lack grip.
Whats your thoughts-Bridgestone or Michelin??

To be honest, if you have 72,000 k's up on the Goodyears and have been satisfied with their performance then I'd be replacing them with the same, I doubt you will get anywhere near that amount of kms from the Michelin's or Bridgestones

[rand0mn00b]

yes, that is incredible mileage!!

[kevino]

Yes but 2 of the Goodyears have been out of round since new... the tyres are as noisy and whiny and wobbly as buggery. I hate them, but they would probably do 80000Kms.

the question is (no to Toyos) Bridgestone Adrenalin or Michelin Pilot sport 3, s to replace them.

Which one?

[rand0mn00b]

any particular reason you're limiting it to those 2?

can't speak for the entire Toyo range but the Proxes 4 on mine are ok... grippier than the factory Goodyear NCTs

after a bit of research I'm getting Kumgo KU31s fitted this Thursday. Have you considered them? Might work out costing a fair bit less than your existing options (without sacrificing too much on quality I hope - will find out soon!)

[Russ]

Originally Posted by rand0mn00b

any particular reason you're limiting it to those 2?

can't speak for the entire Toyo range but the Proxes 4 on mine are ok... grippier than the factory Goodyear NCTs

after a bit of research I'm getting Kumgo KU31s fitted this Thursday. Have you considered them? Might work out costing a fair bit less than your existing options (without sacrificing too much on quality I hope - will find out soon!)

This is totally of topic and my apologies to Big Damo but KU31's are a fantastic bang for buck tyre, they may not last as long as some of the more expensive tyres but they will more than likely be as good or better to drive on I have had KU31's on a couple of cars both VW Golf's and they handled great in wet and dry, they did start to get a little noisier once they were down to around 50% tread but they still gripped well and would have been good for at least 40,000 kms with plenty of spirited driving included


I would suggest though that if you want to discuss tyre options it would be best if you started another thread in the appropriate section