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Old 12-10-2009, 09:18 PM   #1
tbomb182
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hi i got a 2001 au II xr8 ute.

problems - leaking pwr steering pump + rack replaced rack
- rear brake abs sensor replaced it
- front brake shudder machined discs new pads
- trans oil pump and rear seal fixed
- exhaust leak from pacemaker headers fixed but still sounds hollow cant sort it out ! sux hardcore
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:02 AM   #2
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yes they are a pain!

also check your rear doors I noticed on my now mangled fairlane.. that the door on the inside at the top where the window sill is has completely rusted out where the trim sits(the bit up against the window)

mine also has rust in the rear right corner in the reinforced section under the tail light (took it out and it was lookin at me)
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:08 AM   #3
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get a genuine one if the cheapy keeps dieing
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:11 AM   #4
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3 door actuators on the drivers side in the past couple of months, light bulbs, keeps on going
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 29-11-2009, 09:24 AM   #5
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Default car heating up when coolant inside

Hi guys i desperately need help whith my au. All of a suden my car started to heat up it had coolant (nulon) inside. just before that heater was not blowing hot air .I took it to the mechanic and he changed radiator and thermostat, flush the car number of times, now heater does blow hot air but engine heats up when car is reved up for 2000 over 2 to 3 seconds thats only when there is coolant inside. if i take coolant out and just use water it fine. fans are also kiking in at high and low speed as required.
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Old 29-11-2009, 09:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alig
...I took it to the mechanic and he changed radiator and thermostat, flush the car number of times, now heater does blow hot air but engine heats up when car is reved up for 2000 over 2 to 3 seconds thats only when there is coolant inside. if i take coolant out and just use water it fine. fans are also kiking in at high and low speed as required.
?faulty water temperature sensor (just a guess).

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Old 29-11-2009, 01:45 PM   #7
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just had another thought...

Are you diluting the Nulon correctly?

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Old 05-12-2009, 10:48 PM   #8
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Default AU problems

Bought my AU2 XR8 manual, narooma blue 2 months ago,

these are my probs and fixes so far

1. PROB. LHF door wouldnt lock (5min's after buying it! grrr)
1. FIX. New door lock actuator

2. PROB. LHR window wouldnt go up ( 3rd day i owned it)
2. FIX1. Pull out all switches clean and relube then, lube the window rubbers
2. FIX2. Played up again yesterday, bought all ne switches for every door, fix it for once and for good.

3. Prob. Loosing water,
3. Fix. Replace heater valve ( still needs new radiator but not badly)

4. Prob. Steering rack leaking Power steering connector leaking
4. Fix. Replace with reco'd unit. Replace connector. ( hose is much dearer)

5. Prob. Clutch starting to slip
5. Fix. Not yet but im getting a new HD exedy clutch and a alloy flywheel and a rip shifter all at once.

OTHER WEIRD THINGS

Car wouldnt unlock with smart key two weeks ago on a really hot day, but after a bit of perserverence it opened with the key.

Airbag light was intermitently lighting on the dash, today has decided to stay on. Should i be concerned the airbag could go off in my face at any moment????

Needs service is overdue, will be fitting NGK irridium plugs, Topgun 8.8mm leads, K&N panel filter, Gates timing belt & new idler pully( which is starting to squeek.

Front has a squeek which is related to the LHF wheel, its intermittent, doesnt go away when brakes are applied, doesnt feel like a wheel bearing! has me stuffed!

Brakes Squeek like a mofo! mainly the fronts, Stops like hell, could just be perf pads? havnt even had time to suss it out properly,

Any light shed on these final few issues would be appreciated.
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Old 06-12-2009, 07:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urbancowboy


Airbag light was intermitently lighting on the dash, today has decided to stay on. Should i be concerned the airbag could go off in my face at any moment????



Any light shed on these final few issues would be appreciated.
When you turn acc on, does the airbag light flash a few times, then stop and flash again, then stay on.
If so count how many times it flashes, then a pause, then count the flashes again.
It could be the clock spring, very common.
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:23 AM   #10
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urban cowboy put the last of your post part here http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdi...ysprune=&f=241 you will get more answers to your questions. but about the air bag if the light is staying on it needs to be checked out I think.

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Old 06-12-2009, 10:56 AM   #11
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Airbag light could be blown fuse - check all fuses (better yet, replace the airbag ones)
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Old 06-12-2009, 02:19 PM   #12
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The air bag will not go off unless you crash. Also it depends on the code if it will go off in a crash or not.
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Old 06-12-2009, 05:49 PM   #13
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speaking of air bag, every one on here nos i had the accident, just wondering, where that sensor is, becuase i hit the lower suppot bar, behind the front bumper dead straight doing 40 kms and hour and pushed the bar in and the air bag didnt go off
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Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors
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Old 06-12-2009, 05:56 PM   #14
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as far as I am aware in AUSTRALIA you need to be doing in excess of 45kmh to set off the airbag(lower in america from what i recall).. otherwise they would go off in shopping centre carparks if you tapped sombody.. and if you hit the dash at that speed your a rag doll and need to grow a spine lol..
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Old 06-12-2009, 07:08 PM   #15
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If you werent injured enough for hospital admission, then the airbag wont go off. Why would the airbag go off if you hit the rad support? The crash isnt going to hurt you, but if the air bag woul have gone off, you could have had a broken arm/nose, and probably burns. No use the airbags going off and doing more damage than what is going to be caused by the accident itself, otherwise they wouldnt be allowed to be fitted.
Get what Im saying?
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Old 06-12-2009, 07:39 PM   #16
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Thanks Whiskers, JC and Beer Baron.
I'll have to go have a quick look at the fuses. I did notice earlier today that its gone back to intermitently being lit up and it may even have to do with the rotation of the steering wheel.
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Old 07-12-2009, 02:22 AM   #17
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Thanks Galaxy XR8,

I forgot to check the fuses, but that's because when i drove it this arvo it was lit up initially then went off as per normal! Then the same tonight when i drove it home again! But i will write myself a post-it note to check the fuse and to try it with the aircon on to see if it flashes as you've suggested.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the front end squeek may be? its not grindy sounding and its like its only a small section of when the front left wheel is rotating, as in you hear it up to about 30kph then its gone, but also it sometimes isnt there at all! I might just get new wheel bearing done to eliminate that.
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:54 PM   #18
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Thanks for all the help ppl, and also the search feature!
I've worked it must be the clock spring as tonight i drove it and for a short while and i was able to control the light by the steering wheel, i.e. straight no light, turn a fraction and it light up!
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:45 AM   #19
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The clock spring is a common problem, but the amount of time's the airbag light flashes then pause's and flashes again is the code that denotes the exact problem.
If you want to be sure.
But I will put my money on the clock spring.
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Old 07-02-2010, 02:27 AM   #20
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Any suggestions where to get a new Au Xr8 Series III radiator? Mines started leaking.
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:05 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Venomous1
Any suggestions where to get a new Au Xr8 Series III radiator? Mines started leaking.
Ebay/supercheap/autobarn etc, any AU radiator will fit. Look for one with a thick core. e.g. this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RADIATOR-FORD...item2ea7c8e090
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:48 PM   #22
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thanks.
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Old 16-05-2013, 03:26 PM   #23
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Default Re: Common Problems with the AU??

Hi just wondering if any one could help me find a drivers side door mirror. Somebody broke it off the car over the weekend. So far all the ones I have come across are no good for vehicles with climate control or memory seats. I live in country Victoria so not to many wreckers about. My vehicle is a 2001 Ford Fairmont Tickford AU series 2 not sure of the colour possibly sparkling burgundy. Thank you heaps I have had my vehicle for over two years has been the best most reliable economical (lpg )vehicle I have ever owned.I will be passing it down to my daughter in the next few years as I know it will serve her well.
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Old 14-03-2010, 08:31 PM   #24
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The battery just died in mine. Racq sold century and its just over 2 years old. Out of warranty by 3 months. Bloke told me i dont drive enough!!! 9500 ks a year. I would not ever buy a century again, gave me the run around big time when i asked the question.
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Old 14-03-2010, 11:43 PM   #25
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9500 a year!! That's bugger all
I know of alot of weekender type cars get flat batteries as the cells don't get charged etc and die
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Old 07-06-2010, 06:45 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackers10
9500 a year!! That's bugger all
I know of alot of weekender type cars get flat batteries as the cells don't get charged etc and die
Yep, don't blame the battery. Particularly if you use the lights, wipers etc, the car never get a chance to charge the battery up to full. Takes many hours of driving to charge up the battery properly. azza, invest in a trickle charger, one that you can leave connected to the battery all the time. They use bugger all electricity, cost about $90, and will make your battery last for many years.
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Old 26-06-2010, 10:55 PM   #27
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I've owned mine for almost 2 years and only done 4000 ;)
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Old 23-08-2010, 10:23 PM   #28
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Just got an AUIII Futura. Have owned an AU1 and AU2 Forte 5 years ago as well.

I've also worked in the taxi industry from 1999-2006 and spent many hours inside/outside AUs, as well as working on them.

With the one I just picked up, I've had to replace the timing chain tensioner o-ring and fix the window switches. I also replaced the steering wheel with a leather XR one as the standard types commonly wear away to nothing. The keypad battery connector commonly falls out as well, so my fix was to put a small rubber seal between the pad cover and battery. Problem solved. S5 solenoid needs replacing but apart from that it's actually quite a nice car to drive considering it has 343,xxx kms on the odometer.

These cars go forever.
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Old 09-09-2010, 07:41 PM   #29
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Guys anyone know how i get to the drivers side rear seat belt as it wont retract. Its in my au 99 model
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:54 AM   #30
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Default that's when the trouble started

well I've got an AU 2 tradesman ute 11/2001 and I was pretty happy with it, I had even got over the poor fuel economy but thats when the trouble started....
the roof lining started falling off $120.00 easy and fairly cheap, exhaust section between cat and muffler $140.00 not too bad, air con started cutting in and out and temp gauge started cutting in and out and then all of the dash instruments ARRRR still not fixed, sprayed electrical connections with some crc worked for a month or so but still a problem. started getting hot in town, got the radiator and engine flushed and replaced thermostat, $300 wife started getting cranky (this car is costing us a fortune) found red oil in coolant!!! common problem for automatics!!! apparently the auto trans fluid runs through the radiator and they corrode putting coolant in the trans (sometimes) and/or trans fluid in the coolant, killing the transmission luckily I was only up for $520.00 for the radiator and the trans has been ok, harmonic balancer and 180K service $550.00
so all up in the last 12 months $1630.00 and I still have and electrical, over heating and air con problem ARRRRRRR they might all be related so I am going to check the thermo fans today I think the over heating might be that I have lost the low speed thermo fan the temp gauge still sits between N and O on normal but it smells hot (can smell coolant and it feels a lot hotter than it should) in diagnostic it says 92 deg which sounds normal from what I read on the forums but any help would be appreciated.
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