Uni Chip? ~ Edit? or NEW E Series Chip?

[Mechan1k]

Scan the dyno chart and post it up.

[GlennBA]

just downloading the driver for my scanner so i can... i'll post it up shortly. :(

[GlennBA]

Click here for dyno chart..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Picture024.jpg

[xr8ute]

Holy cow....that is seriously lean for WOT!!

Something wrong there, bad MAP sensor maybe?

What sort of chip did they recommend? If it was a J3-type chip, then it is one of the many types of edit out there.... i.e. using a chip to recalibrate the strategy in the std computer.

[GlennBA]

Originally Posted by xr8ute

Holy cow....that is seriously lean for WOT!!

Something wrong there, bad MAP sensor maybe?

What sort of chip did they recommend? If it was a J3-type chip, then it is one of the many types of edit out there.... i.e. using a chip to recalibrate the strategy in the std computer.

I'm not even sure how to tell from that chart if its running lean or not.. umm he didn't really reccomend any chip. It was a fordmods dyno day and he wasn't very helpful at all..

[Mechan1k]

Your AFR is running between 14 and 15:1 ... it should be somewhere along the lines of 11 to 12 from memory ... for a safe level ... someone will give exact readings for you though.

High 13's is starting to get too lean ... yours is higher ... no wonder.
Then again ... could have been a faulty sensor though ... might be a dyno telling porkies.

I'd say try another dyno that you know and trust and see what they come up with. But that AFR is too high.

Do you notice pinging when you are really up it????

Looking at the graph it looks imcomplete ... I'd say because he backed out of it when he noticed the AFR readings were high. It was still on the rise though.

[xr8ute]

Originally Posted by GlennAUII

I'm not even sure how to tell from that chart if its running lean or not..

The scale for AFR is on the right-hand side.

The flat, dotted line is the measured AFR i.e. about 14.5:1 the whole way across...

Something is not working properly on your car for AFR to be that high. Blocked fuel filter, buggered MAP sensor? Hard to tell without looking at the car, but best to take it somewhere to see if the computer is throwing any codes from a stuffed sensor.

All of this is of course assuming that the AFR reading is accurate ;)

Drop into one of the trusted forum sponsors down that way.....G&D, ACE, or Bluepower...(i dont know VIC, so not sure who you are closest to).

In the meantime, try and keep out of the throttle.

[rob_liss_lms10]

Elite Automotive
Contact: Paul
166 Beatty Road Archerfield QLD 4108
Phone - (07) 32742445 or Fax - (07) 3255 6529
www.eliteauto.com.au

I take my car here, I can highly recommend Paul and Tim, I had a haltech fitted to my car and they explained every step they were taking and I'm more than happy with the result.I got a very healthy 201.7hp with just intake and exhaust. These guys know there stuff. They do all sorts of chips as well as edits.I went chip cause the haltech intercepter can handle a super charger better than a std puter(more boost), which I may do in the future.

[b2tf]

Originally Posted by GlennAUII

I'm not even sure how to tell from that chart if its running lean or not.. umm he didn't really reccomend any chip. It was a fordmods dyno day and he wasn't very helpful at all..

If you get the edit done they will never know its even there - plug it in, tune it, plug it out and youre done. No new wires etc.

Failing that, a Unichip and hide it behind your kick panel. I'll have mine for sale in a few weeks.

[b-juggles]

Originally Posted by ~Nudge~

OK Guys I have some results. 189rwkw.

Capa edit on a inline 6 Auto with a Powerdyne running 6psi. Not too bad. There is still some teething problems though which we cant seem to get around (yet). At 4000rpm to about 4500rpm the car for some reason dumps way too much fuel in, and bogs down. So if you floor it you get boost, it bogs and has a spit for about 3 secs and then you get a crap load of boost again. If you go half throttle and it changes at 4000rpm its perfect (but obviously im not at full boost).

Other than that its time now for those extra precautions, I need to add a tranny cooler, intercooler and water injection to the kit. After that I may think about the 9psi pulley. I wouldnt mind some ideas on how to get the boost a bit lower down in the rev range, I might even look at a stally.

you mention there is too much fuel at 4000rpm - is that not the point of the tune though to be able to trim the fuel (or add it) and adjust timing to suit? cant you trim fuel back further in the tune to prevent it running so rich?

[b-juggles]

Originally Posted by stockoau

fair enough, shouldn't cause any drama's. I thought you were talking water injection in the t/b to drop combustion temp. I can't understand why people even consider it, it's almost garenteed trouble

That is what he is talking about, although not in the throttle body, in the intake tube prior that feeds the throttle body. It is usually connected before the impellor on the blower.

the whole point of it is to drop intake temp - It is a form of intercooling.


why is it guaranteed trouble? sure you might need to replace plugs a lot sooner, and if you base your tune on the cooling effects of water and you run out then you could be in trouble but what else is the issue with it?

[StealthAu]

the issue, is turboed cars which were sold a water injection setup which involved, injecting a mist of water at the throttle body. Now when you're high up in the revs, shit goes wrong with it, and a mist turns into a jet of water, what do you thinks gonna happen? This isn't speculation, or what ifs, but what I have seen happen to a couple of cars.

[StealthAu]

having said, that, what nudge was talking about is a bit different, having a mist shot in before the charger,intercooler,plumbing,to throttle body, I'd be guessing any hassles woulddn't be to major

[Stav]

Glen ..your car is a time bomb mate.I would not get it edited at all.The car has a problem.Fix the problem as an edit or chip will mask the real problem.If it is say a fuel filter and you change it you will need to retune the car again!!

[GlennBA]

Its running an XR6 ECU with the forte engine... could this be the cause? I would have thought it'd be making it use more petrol if anything..
Another thing, it gets absolutely shit fuel economy too.

[Mechan1k]

Put an XR6 HP cam in it and see how it goes. This might fix your problems.
Also get your fuel system checked out too

[xr8ute]

Originally Posted by GlennAUII

Its running an XR6 ECU with the forte engine...

Yeah dude...that will almost certainly be the reason (or at least part there of)

The XR6 ran a higher pressure in the fuel regulator, affectively making the injectors larger. Because the XR6 ECU is expecting larger fuel injectors, it is commanding less injector pulsewidth than it it would for a Forte with the std fuel regulator.

Long story short, get an XR6 fuel pressure reg on there, and reset your computer (to reset the fuel trims). Should be much improved.

[GlennBA]

Originally Posted by xr8ute

Yeah dude...that will almost certainly be the reason (or at least part there of)

The XR6 ran a higher pressure in the fuel regulator, affectively making the injectors larger. Because the XR6 ECU is expecting larger fuel injectors, it is commanding less injector pulsewidth than it it would for a Forte with the std fuel regulator.

Long story short, get an XR6 fuel pressure reg on there, and reset your computer (to reset the fuel trims). Should be much improved.

Can you not just program the ECU to work with the engine without having to put on more parts?

[bodes-sh]

^^you probably could, but you would have to get an edit probably...i think a xr6 fuel pressure regulator would be a bit cheaper than that

[GlennBA]

Would i need a new fuel pump and injectors?

[Mitch_]

prolby only injectors :P

[Stav]

Originally Posted by ~Nudge~

OK Guys I have some results. 189rwkw.

Capa edit on a inline 6 Auto with a Powerdyne running 6psi. Not too bad. There is still some teething problems though which we cant seem to get around (yet). At 4000rpm to about 4500rpm the car for some reason dumps way too much fuel in, and bogs down. So if you floor it you get boost, it bogs and has a spit for about 3 secs and then you get a crap load of boost again. If you go half throttle and it changes at 4000rpm its perfect (but obviously im not at full boost).

Other than that its time now for those extra precautions, I need to add a tranny cooler, intercooler and water injection to the kit. After that I may think about the 9psi pulley. I wouldnt mind some ideas on how to get the boost a bit lower down in the rev range, I might even look at a stally.

Nudge are you still running the broad band manifold?

[xr8ute]

Originally Posted by GlennAUII

Would i need a new fuel pump and injectors?

Why? Your not making that much power...just change the reg to match the ECU...no need to complicate things.

[GlennBA]

Originally Posted by xr8ute

Why? Your not making that much power...just change the reg to match the ECU...no need to complicate things.

oh ok cool.. thanks for the help. I don't really have a lot of knowledge about engines :
Looks like i'll be off to ford this week

[GlennBA]

Ok guys.. sorry for all the questions, but will the XR6 fuel pressure regulator require the XR6 fuel rail too?
I picked up a new fuel pressure regulator today.. its a 3.5 bar one.

[~Nudge~]

Originally Posted by useless

Nudge are you still running the broad band manifold?

Explain? Im not sure what that is.

[FS5]

Originally Posted by GlennAUII

Ok guys.. sorry for all the questions, but will the XR6 fuel pressure regulator require the XR6 fuel rail too?
I picked up a new fuel pressure regulator today.. its a 3.5 bar one.

i put an 300kpa xr6 reg on mine a while back .i used an e series fuel rail and reg .
to fit an au xr6 one you have to get the whole fuel rail with the reg.

[RG]

When I had the EL we upped the fuel pressure just by knocking the top of the reg in and the same has been done to my AU.