2001 AUII ute immobilizer problems

[WagonJunkie]

I didn't know there was different bonnets...?

Regarding nearlythere issues:
It sounds similar to the problem I had. My ute wouldn't exit theft mode even after a full key re-program & PATS reset. (With 2 factory keys)

But as soon as I plugged in a new (2nd hand) BEM & ran the keys & PATS program again, it started first try.
Haven't had issue since.
It was a bit of a gamble...but it sounds like you've eliminated most other things?

[mad2]

Originally Posted by WagonJunkie

I didn't know there was different bonnets...?

yeah - AU1/utes/XR - Fairmonts etc, then utes/XR with rest using same same on AU2

[dollars]

Originally Posted by WagonJunkie

So unless the mods think I should start my own thread (?), I'm going to "adopt" Mr Furious' old thread to see if I can get my ute running.
It has been almost a month since Smartshield mysteriously activated & called the cops on the party.
The only clues was on the day it failed it got progressively harder to start over a few hours, as I went from place to place running errands 'n stuff.

So I have run the PATS procedure thru FORScan, and the Module Initialization, with both factory keys. The system had no problem recognizing & relearning the keys - it bumped the locks up/down to indicated the process worked on both keys.

I have attached a couple of screenshots of the errors.
I would love more info about IC B2682 "EEC (PCM) Communication Fault ??
Not a very specific code....wondering where to start?

Unfortunately I’m in the same boat. Fine yesterday. This morning no start! Tried a few times. Now fast flashing of the smart shield instrument cluster lamp and starter motor locked out!!!

My Ute is the series 1 (small brake calipers 1999 model). Two keys and remotes all previously working fine. Interior lights etc working fine. First up I plan to check out the wreckers to see if a suitable BEM module is available locally. Also will have to update forscan as I had previously downloaded program but never had to use it.

Although I have read this and other threads regarding smart shield anything I should/could do suggestions welcomed. For example tried the hold the key in the start position for < three seconds to force read of key chip ( no difference ). Will also do a fuse check to double check for any blown fuses although everything seems fine.

Please wish me luck .

[asimplelife]

I am no expert...and I only have series 2/3 AU's.
But yes, once you have exhausted the simple things (which may be different for AU1), if you can find a BEM for 50 bucks or less, I would try that next.
I am also not sure if Forscan works the same for AU1 as it does for AU2 and 3.
But to re pair the PCM/ECU to the BEM, you also need Forscan extended, which is a small charge you have to pay. I can't remember the steps off the top of my head. But it's all spelt out on the website. And if you're like me you may need to spend some time digesting it all.
Good luck.
And I'd be confident you can get a resolution...although you may need to spend some time. And to reduce how long it takes, make sure you are meticulous with your steps. I find it really easy to forget what I just did. So I write it down as I go to overcome that.

[dollars]

Thanks ASL. Checked the simple things first. All the fuses checked out OK. Funnily enough when I went looking for the BEM module I found it was flopping around under the left hand side of the lower dash. The bracket that is supposed to locate it was loose and I managed to unplug it without removing the dash!

Interestingly it has a service sticker on it serviced on the 26/08/21? A couple of years before the son in law first purchased the one tonner Ute.

Unfortunately no colour markings on the module (all grey no pink or blue) Next part of the plan ,as you and others suggested, is off to the local wreckers to see if they have a suitable replacement.

Thanks to WJ also. Just double checked out the images you posted of the BEM to make sure I had the correct component lol.

[asimplelife]

I never got to the bottom of which colour BEM's are for what. And both WagonJunkie and myself were talking about S2 and S3.
I am not sure if S1 BEM's are different...they might be...given the different security systems.
Usually I have found there was not much demand for BEM's.I would be trying a pick a part type wrecker. I am fortunate to have 4 within a reasonable distance. I'd be trying to find one with an S1 ute.Or maybe there is someone wrecking one close by on FB Marketplace or Gumtree.If the existing BEM was not secured and able to bounce around...that seems to me to to make it more likely that the BEM has failed.

[dollars]

Still ongoing. Spoke with our local wrecker ( only one in town). Had a few of the later model blue and pink Modules. Mine is the early “grey”type also mentioned might be a difference between manual and auto transmissions ( mine is the 5 speed manual ) Also mentioned the bypass chip (J6 ?) or the looping of the power wires to bypass the immobiliser.

He also suggested a ex ford dealership mechanic in town who is good with these models. I visited his workshop and spoke briefly he didn’t have a suitable spare replacement module but he did seem experienced with these. He suggested that my module might just need a parameter reset ( ie reset communication between BEM and ECU ) and had seen this fault previously. This wouldn’t require reprogramming keys etc that a module replacement would require. He didn’t have a scan tool himself but suggested a local mechanic that had one but also mentioned that the last time he had to show the other mechanic how to perform the reset. He suggested that Forscan wouldn’t work!

So mixed results. So I still would like to try and find a suitable replacement module. I have put an add up on gumtree will have a browse online later tonight. Upgrade Forscan to try and reset communications or perform the full reset if when I can locate a replacement module

TIA for your help, much appreciated.

[asimplelife]

As I mentioned initially, I am no expert.
But I don't believe the comment about Forscan by the mechanic is correct.
With access to a real scan tool he wouldn't have needed to use Forscan.
From memory, as I haven't used it in a while. Forscan DOES do the reset to get the BEM and ECU/PCM communicating again.

If you don't already have one, you need to buy a cheap ebay ELM device to plug into your cars port in the fuse area and connect to the laptop with Forscan and the extended addin installed on it. The Forscan website provides advice about that. There is also a thread or 2 on here that specifically mentions which devices on ebay work the best. I initially bought a cheap one for 10 bucks. Then wasn't sure if that could be part of my problem. So bought a better $70 one. And that was no better. But be careful because some of the cheap ebay ones are reported to be no good.

I wasn't sure about whether the BEM was different for auto and manual so did not mention it. I don't think it is though. I believe the ECU/PCM controls the differences between auto and manual.
I am also not sure whether it makes too much difference for a ute to use a sedan/wagon BEM. It may only be the 2 door v 4 doors and a boot that is the difference. If you are stuck for a ute one but can get a sedan one for free or cheap I'd give that a shot.
The thing I know nothing about is the AU1 v AU2/3. I suspect that you will have to use an AU1 one.
Sorry I can't be more specific. Much of the gaps in my knowledge will be answered in various posts on this and other forums...but that is time consuming...so it just depends on your situation. I could spend some more time going through my own notes but am flat out on something else at the moment. Plus having no experience with AU1 and it's different security system makes my info less relevant. I believe AU1 is more like the late E series models that preceded it. Having said that, perhaps their BEM's might be interchangeable with late E series?...I don't know that for sure though.

At best I am trying not to mislead you.
But I also want to say that I think your problem is fixable for not much money but maybe a lot of time depending on your experience and ability.
I've got a low km 2010 VW van sitting on the street for over 2 years now that I've had since new which seems to have an ECU problem...and that is a far bigger headache for me than any AU falcon issue I have experienced. My VW mechanic gave up on it and I then wasted $500 with an auto elec who somehow made the problem worse. I now need to spend a lot of money on a quality scan tool and hundreds of dollars more on a second hand ecu just to try and get it started...now that for me is a BIG problem :(

[aussiblue]

This thread on the Forscan Forum https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic....r+reset#p63917 does suggests that it cannot do the parameter reset.

[aussiblue]

Still it would be worth posting the Question on the Forscan forum.

[dollars]

Thanks again to ASL and Aussiblue for your constructive comments and encouragement

This is a great informative thread with lots of contributors and a lot of reads.

I tend to agree with your comments regarding the mechanics assumption regarding forscan. You would think that some part of the scan would include an initiate communication request/ reset for the various modules to communicate with the ECU!

I believe from many hours of reading on this forum and other sites that all the early S1 AU cab chassis had the new “Smart shield” installed. The wagons and the sedans were updated mid series.

So far haven’t been able to find a “grey” BEM still looking. While browsing also spotted the reprogrammed ECU with smartshield removed advert for $269. So that is another option if all else fails!

Already have the ELM unit just need to update forscan program

And now going to read up with link provided by AB

Cheers and best wishes

[portokatsiki]

Had same pronlem about 14 years ago on my S1 TE50 immoboliser wouldnt let me start the car. Bit the bullet and towed to the ford dealer who did a parameter reset and all was good. My car losked me out after I installed an aftermarket chip in the ecu. Costly excercise. Sometimes leaving the ignition on for an hour can marry the ecu,bcm,and the key and enables you to start the car.

[asimplelife]

Originally Posted by dollars

He suggested that my module might just need a parameter reset ( ie reset communication between BEM and ECU ) and had seen this fault previously. This wouldn’t require reprogramming keys etc that a module replacement would require. He didn’t have a scan tool himself but suggested a local mechanic that had one but also mentioned that the last time he had to show the other mechanic how to perform the reset. He suggested that Forscan wouldn’t work!

Originally Posted by asimplelife

But I don't believe the comment about Forscan by the mechanic is correct. With access to a real scan tool he wouldn't have needed to use Forscan. From memory, as I haven't used it in a while. Forscan DOES do the reset to get the BEM and ECU/PCM communicating again.

Originally Posted by aussiblue

This thread on the Forscan Forum does suggests that it cannot do the parameter reset.

Originally Posted by dollars

I tend to agree with your comments regarding the mechanics assumption regarding forscan. You would think that some part of the scan would include an initiate communication request/ reset for the various modules to communicate with the [COLOR=#F80000 ]ECU[/COLOR]!

Just in case you were referring to my comment, I am now less sure now that I was talking about the same thing as the mechanic.

I am talking from my AU2/3 experience. I had assumed that "Paramter Reset" was what happens when Forscan extended re-links the BEM and ECU/PCM. It definitely does this as I have swapped over a number of ECU/PCMs. And the car won't start until you have run the Forscan process (and with this process and the 2 genuine keys you have to be careful not to mix up your steps).

However perhaps the "Paramter Reset" is a different thing for an AU1 with their different security system? And Forscan has not been programmed to do this?

I am deliberately trying to not use any specific terminology here and mislead you. I haven't taken the time to re read everything and am just speaking from memory. And not with any AU1 experience.

[dollars]

Update. Upgraded to the “extended license” with Forscan

Spent the last few days unsuccessfully trying to get it to work!

Noted that forscan was defaulted to the “Demo” check box. Played around with the communication selection to select the Hardwired ELM unit and communication speed etc

Read numerous forscan forums. Also noted Wagon Junkie and ASL posts on various threads in/on that forum.��

Had partial success ELM adapter seem to connect and showed ~11.5 V but still seemed to hang up with program failing to respond. Apparently the first scan can take several minutes or more. So I hooked up the battery charger to top up the battery.

Still struggling so far downloaded the latest Forscan update , deleted the latest update, reinstalled the latest update and reinstalled extended license key. ATM can’t get the program to communicate with the ELM adapter. Starting to read up on how to update latest ELM firmware.

Also read and noted on the Forscan forums that the “ Ford Parameter Reset” corresponds with “Forscan Module Initialisation” and a general warning suggestion not to perform this function except that some vehicle’s, with particular mention that the AU’s do, require this feature! Hope this removes any uncertainty and I will confirm in future updates if I have any success.

Also to confirm, I believe, All the Series 1 Cab Chassis AU’s had the newer smartshield security system. Rather than the older Smartlock system!

So a frustrating few days. Big learning curve so far.

Cheer$

[asimplelife]

Yes...it is a big learning curve...at least that's what I found.It's not that it's so complicated...just that the instructions are all over the place...perhaps it also depends on how ones mind works...or doesn't.Just to help you confirm if you are smartshield or smartlock.I only have series 2 and 3...so that is smartshield.I've attached a pic of what my key and remote looks like...I believe they are different.
www.fordforums.com.au/photos/showfull.php?photo=75697

And a couple of points from my memory.You need 2 keys to do this reset.And they should be Ford genuine keys.Some of the non genuine keys work...but some don't...there is a chip in the key itself.Provided you have at least one working key you can determine from the process which key doesn't work...like most of this process, when that happens, it can be confusing...but if you are meticulous with your process you can work it out.If you find you have 2 keys but only 1 genuine one...then you can still make the process work by wrapping foil around the plastic area of the bad key to block the chip and hold the good key chip very close to it while turning the key in the ignition. I presume this means that the car is smart enough the know the key itself is different but not smart enough to know that the same chip is being used for 2 keys.

[asimplelife]

Sorry. Didn't work out how to get the image into that post in time

[dollars]

Update. Ordered new OBDLink EX adapter ( Amazon Australian $100)

Finally have been able to log in

Still Unable to do a Module Initialisation (parameter reset ). When I try that function only one key showing in log! When I try the full PATS get a similar outcome unable to clear existing keys!

I am guessing that although I have/had two working keys and fobs they must be from the same clone? So now looking into how to remedy this.

Also noted
1)that once I was able to plug in and connect the new adapter I was able to crank over the motor (didn’t start still a fast flash on Smartshield jewel)

2). DTC in PCM P0108

3). Tried the old ebay adapter still not connecting

[asimplelife]

So you definitely have Forscan extended that will allow you to do PATS?

Both my OBD adapters (cheap and not so) have worked...but others have posted in these threads about theirs not working...which sounds like your initial problem...now resolved.

I have not had a faulty BEM or ECU/PCM myself yet...but keep in mind that could still be your problem.

I have experienced one key/chip not being genuine...meaning the chip located in the black plastic at the top of the key not reading.
I believe I confirmed this to myself by reversing the order I used the keys in during PATS...and the process fails in a different place with the faulty key/chip....assuming you have 1 good key/chip...if not then you might be in trouble?

If you experience no change to where the fault occurs when reversing the keys...it could also be a faulty BEM or ECU/PCM...and I'd start by swapping in another BEM...because on these forums that is most often reported as the fix...with some FB backyard wreckers you might get both the BEM and ECU/PCM together for the same price or close to...at least I have in the past.

The solution to one faulty key/chip...is to wrap the black plastic of the faulty key in foil...use the good key first...then after you remove the first key to insert the second faulty key...hold the black plastic of the good key very close to the now foil covered part of the second key.

While the process knows the key itself is different (from the cut I assume)...it cannot tell that you have used the same chip for 2 keys...allowing you to complete PATS.
After PATS success you just return to using both keys as before.

Another note is that some non genuine keys/chips do work with this Forscan process...I have experienced this...I seem to remember some blanks being advertised on ebay too.
For a car that came with only 1 key a locksmith provided me with a non genuine one that I later could not use for Forscan PATS...but obviously he could somehow.
And I assume a genuine key...which I assume are all those with the word Ford moulded into them...could have a faulty chip...but I have not experience that.

That's about as much as I can remember from my number of attempts on different S2 and S3 AU's.
All the best with it.

[dollars]

Latest update

Yes ASL latest license Forscan update.

After searching this and other forums and reading The Ford manual section regarding Smartshield. Thought I might try the “reprogramming keys” and attempt the “foil trick” if I encountered any problems.

I separated the fobs from the keys to allow for easy insertion and applying the foil if necessary. I inserted the first key into the ignition and turned on and waited for the Smartshield to start fast flashing to my great surprise it didn’t! So moved it to start and believe it or not it started. Turned off and inserted second key and it also started.

In summary I didn’t get to actually reset anything. Both module initialisation and the PATS reset both seemed to be unsuccessful in the Forscan procedure however the process of plugging in the ELM adapter and reading the modules seems to have reset the communication???

At the moment the laptop battery is on charge but I will do another scan to see what the log says now that it’s running.

So thanks again for all members interest and contributions. I find it hard to believe it’s running. I will have to go out to check again in a few minutes. Must also the remove the battery charger on the car. I made sure battery was fully charged before I attempted anything this time.

Edit checked to confirm it’s still starting and running. Note to self, next time make sure battery charger is disconnected and removed from under bonnet before attempting start ��

[dollars]

Another point possibly worth noting. Because I am unfamiliar with the Forscan program I attempted several times the PATs And Module Initialization process with basically the same unsuccessful outcome. However in the end selected “exit” “ok” to end the process which seemed to do a six second shutdown of the process. Maybe this had some effect ?

[asimplelife]

Well...mission accomplished.
With only 1x AU you may never have to do this again.

I haven't used Forscan for a while so from memory I can't comment further.

Not sure what you mean by "fob".
As mentioned I only have S2 and S3 and don't know what your S1 key and remote look like.
But just to be clear...with mine...the chip is inside the moulded black plastic section that is part of the key with the word Ford on it...NOT in the separate remote control with the buttons...so it is the top of the key that I would wrap the foil around.

[dollars]

Fob is the remote door opener.

My Ute has “Smartshield” and has the key with the chip, the remote is seperate! A bit of mix and match with the first series 1 AU’s cab chassis’ and the older models.

That’s the reason I separated the key from the fob to make it easier to insert and place foil around key!

Thanks again for your input and support.

Still hard to believe she’s running after all the the mucking around, reading, head scratching etc. cheer$

[asimplelife]

Well you can wish me luck...after 4 years of doing almost nothing...I'm about to start back on trying to finish off 8 cars...6 are AU's...and that's one less than the 7 I did have :/

[dollars]

I must have broken a mirror or two and run over a black cat!

First thing checked was to see battery was charged reading 12.3 v. ( near new battery replaced April this year)

After starting ok Approximately 20 times yesterday on both keys No start this morning!

Trying to do a proper PATS reset. So I have been trying to chase up another key so as to programme two keys into memory. Tried the silver foil trick multiple times no luck. Whichever key I insert first seems to program into memory second key won’t respond. I believe I need second key to trick ecu/BEM into allowing next step.

Put the battery back on charger because after spend an hour or so in forscan battery voltage was showing 11.9/12v

Also approached locksmith to see if he had a suitable transponder? chip. No luck. Off to the wreckers to see if I can buy, loan or steal a key to see if I can progress to the next stage.

Also another concern on initial scan I noted the can bus had a ~2% error Not sure what that means or if that within specification? or a contributing fault to my problem. Might have to check out the connections to the ECU I have noted forum members suggesting that this can also cause these types of faults.

[dollars]

Fingers crossed update

Sourced a second key from the local wrecker. He let me borrow it to see if I could make it work and agreed that these model fords are a PITA. Was able to complete the PATS key reset with two keys now showing stored in the log.

Module Initialisation completed , noting 12 minute security delay. So I can confirm Forscan will do the equivalent of the Ford Parameter reset.

Now starting and running!

Did a DTC scan and only had one fault so Reset “BARO” fault ?

Still a lot to learn regarding how to use more features on the Forscan program

Want to also try to reset the small “spanner light” that’s showing on the instrument cluster odometer readout. Have another attempt to install the firmware on the elm adapter that wouldn’t work. And remove the transponder from the wrecker key and install it into a ebay flip key I purchased a while ago that didn’t have the programable chip in it although it has been programmed to remotely open and close the doors.

Hopefully will still be ok tomorrow morning and I will start and then I will attempt a road test

Thanks again for your help

[dollars]

Up early (WA time) to check to see if I can start Ute.

Unfortunately won’t start (again). Smartshield fast flash. Seems to be loosing “memory” overnight?

Suspecting (wild guess). PCM (ecu). Will check connections etc. I believe behind the passenger kick panel and do another PATS reset.

Edit to add successfully reset the small spanner service indicator. Held odometer reset button in, turn on key hold for 10 seconds or so then “beep” reset complete. I initially thought you might have to do the reset with forscan. ( Thanks to forum members advice on another thread).

Cheers

[asimplelife]

Its good to know you have the same Smartshield key as my AU S2/3's, so I can assume the process is the same for both of us. As mentioned, I am no expert. But I while back I was swapping PCM/ECU's around, so without referring to my notes, I'll try to add some info from memory. Hopefully it's better than nothing, as none of the far more knowledgeable people appear to be around atm. At least it's some moral support :/

To repeat, I found it very important to keep track of the process and all the things I did. I was very easy to not be sure if I had or had not tried a particular combination/sequence. There is also the risk that a change you make can have an effect on something else you are not aware of which can cause confusion. But there should be no need for luck or praying.The only variation to that is if you have an intermittent problem. Which is then likely electrical/earth/corrosion afaik.

Forscan PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) process involves;"Tester erases all keys from the memory, then the module is switched to a "learn" mode. In this mode, operator must program the first key in 10 seconds and second key in 5 seconds, then BEM module is synchronized with PCM to allow the engine run. It means that in case of problems during this procedure (FORScan bug, faulty blank key etc) the engine may lose ability to start."

You have now successfully programmed 2 keys with Forscan and the car starts with both keys?Then after a period of time with the ignition off, the Smartshield dash light flashes and the ignition will not turn over the engine?

I do not know why the Smartshield dash light is flashing?
Is it because the BEM has forgotten the keys?
Or is it because the BEM has forgotten the PCM/ECU?And why has that happened?

You mentioned early on battery problems. But you are not saying that your battery is going flat overnight now? And even if it did, I don't feel that should have an effect. I regularly disconnect my batteries for long periods and have never experienced the Smartshield light flashing when reconnected.

What still seems most likely to me, is you have a faulty BEM. You initially mentioned it was not secured which could have led to damage. They seem to be a little bit fragile. Or the previous owner was having problems that were not fully resolved? This could also indicate a problem with the connection to the BEM being damaged? Or possibly corrosion from a water leak?

The few related threads on here that were successfully concluded, seemed to end with BEM replacement.I don't believe it is worth the cost of finding a BEM repairer. A wreckers or FB Marketplace/Gumtree should find you one. I'd probably get the PCM/ECU as well if cheap enough. If you can't find the same ute one, then perhaps a sedan/wagon one will do? It's possibly only the extra doors? If necessary you can probably find a thread about this.

The PCM/ECU is located in the passenger footwell. I posted a pic on the previous page 7 of this thread. once you have got the trims and carpet out of the way, there is a pop rivet you need to drill out (unless someone else has done that and left some sort of screw). the bracket is then sort of hinged and you slide it up. There is a 10?mm bolt holding the wiring clip to the PCM.https://www.fordforums.com.au/showpo...&postcount=190On top of the PCM and plug should site a light clear plastic moisture protector. Many slack @rses don't bother putting that back. And many AU's have water leaks into the cabin in that area. Leading to corrosion of the PCM pins. So yes you should check for that. It could indicate that the BEM and PCM are losing contact with each other?
i.e.

I tried the S1.5 (yellow) BEM, ECU and keyset from the XR8 Ute in the S3 Futura Wagon, but no joy. So I managed to source a ECU, BEM (pink) and keyset from a S2 XR8 Ute. This worked fine, and everything in the wagon works as it should, including rear wipers, etc. So the Pink BEM is the same, regardless of body style, etc.

[dollars]

Latest Saturday afternoon update

Removed the PCM in the passenger kick panel. Sure enough corrosion/verdigris on the connector & PCR pins. Thanks for the tip. Removed the plastic pin & connector grommets Used a corrosion buster pen (fibreglass bristles) to clean off the corrosion followed by a good final clean with contact cleaner.

Put it all back together started first time, both keys. No PATS required!

Plan to leave overnight to then check to see if I can start in the morning!

Battery is fine just slightly low. Hasn’t had a decent run for almost a month. Trickle charged just to make sure battery was fully charged. I noticed when you connect with Forscan battery voltage displayed on bottom right of screen.

[asimplelife]

With your PCM/ECU pins being corroded. Have you got a water leak into the cabin on the passenger side. And was there a clear moulded plastic PCM cover over the top of the PCM which acts like a shower cap over it? I haven't got a pic of an AU one but this pic is a similar shape for a Fiesta...but the AU's is a light weight clear plastic.




If you don't have one of these, the problem is likely only going to happen again. And if there is a water leak then best to get it resolved. I've got leaks into the passenger side in 3 cars...but it's still on the to do list to learn.

And because those PCM pins are so fine, it doesn't take much corrosion for them to dissolve altogether, which is what happened to me. So you MUST have been lucky

[dollars]

Hopefully final update

Yes ASL plastic shroud that clicks into place over the top of the PCM connector? My one was grey rather than clear? I will check out the image you posted to confirm. Regarding water leak did have a leak, on the drivers side, from the under windscreen wiper motor. “Repaired” a few months ago. Dry cabin since then.

Edit to add no plastic cover as shown in the image, mine was similar but had a hole to access the 10mm bolt that secures the connector to the PCM!

I have to go back to the wreckers to pay for the second key I will see If I can find something similar as well as pick up a side cab window door trim.

Most of the pins were fine, two or three at the front affected.

This morning started fine. Hopefully back in service now will take for a test drive.

In summary BEM fine. Keys clones were fine, problem with both keys being the same clones couldn’t progress to PATS or Parameter reset with the Forscan program. Corrosion on the PCM and its Connector gave the intermittent overnight recurring fault and possibly explains my first unsuccessful attempt to reset PATS that seemed to work!

Thanks again for all of your help, encouragement and sharing of knowledge.

Cheers