Fuel Economy

Freeway 6.5-7.3 depending on speed limit and weight of passengers
Busy city 8.5-9.5
Suburbia 7-8
Natio run mode - around 9.5-10.5

[mixo]

Well I'm the odd one out here.

LS auto ghia around town we get 12.5 - 13.00 per 100.

My falcon xr6 is on 13.4 and when i drive like a pussy i can nearly get focus readings!

I thought the focus would be more fuel frugal!

mixo

[zetec]

CRIKEY!! Thats' high. I thought I was bad at 10.5 driven hard.

Believe it or not, I've heard a good flogging to break the car in can be one of the best things for maintaining and restoring efficiency.

[mixo]

And that is on premium 98 fuel.....

When it goes in for a service I will tell them it has high fuel economy figure.

The missus drives it around town, doesnt do to much highway crusing.

mixo

[zetec]

Time to take it out for a good solid "blow out the cobwebs" drive. Interesting since it's running on top grade fuel too.

We once had a BA XT Falcon V8 manual come in to my old Dealership as a used car, it was an absolute dog at first, but a week with one of our used car salesmen and it was a completely different car, like someone had woken the thing up. He caned the thing daily to see if it would make a difference and it was a honey of a thing after that. I wonder if sometimes a lot of engines don't lubricate properly if not driven hard enough?

[mixo]

Will giver a try when we are out of town..

But these days we all drive like pussies because we are too scared to drive 1 kay over the limit before the coppers send as mail extracting money out of us.

mixo

[Whitey Ford]

Originally Posted by Barraxr8

He, he.....

no I'll just ride the clutch going down hills........ Lol.

Your focus will use more fuel with the clutch engaged than with it rolling down hill in gear.

All modern (fuel injected) cars shut off the fuel if the engine rpm exceedes a certain amount (about 1500rpm) with the throttle position at zero. If you put the clutch in and roll down hill, the engine has to idle to stop it stalling, using a small amount of fuel. If you roll down the hill in gear and the engine is revving 3,000rpm, it uses absolutely no fuel.

So leaving it in gear saves fuel!

[Stugots]

Originally Posted by Whitey Ford

Your focus will use more fuel with the clutch engaged than with it rolling down hill in gear.

All modern (fuel injected) cars shut off the fuel if the engine rpm exceedes a certain amount (about 1500rpm) with the throttle position at zero. If you put the clutch in and roll down hill, the engine has to idle to stop it stalling, using a small amount of fuel. If you roll down the hill in gear and the engine is revving 3,000rpm, it uses absolutely no fuel.

So leaving it in gear saves fuel!

Exactly what I thought until I did a test going downhill in gear (no throttle) then doing a test by whacking it in Neutral and letting it roll, it returned better fuel econmy results on the neutral roll but I'm still sceptical. Perhaps the trip computer is not so accurate.

[Whitey Ford]

Originally Posted by Stugots

Exactly what I thought until I did a test going downhill in gear (no throttle) then doing a test by whacking it in Neutral and letting it roll, it returned better fuel econmy results on the neutral roll but I'm still sceptical. Perhaps the trip computer is not so accurate.

I promise that the engine will not use any fuel rolling down a hill in gear.

[zetec]

Originally Posted by Whitey Ford

I promise that the engine will not use any fuel rolling down a hill in gear.

I'd say the display might be more RPM based as well as throttle position based so it might not take into consideration all the factors independently.

[More revs]

I put mine in reverse down hills so it MAKES fuel...

[photn]

^ Lol

[Zetec20]

Originally Posted by Whitey Ford

I promise that the engine will not use any fuel rolling down a hill in gear.

what about engine braking on a flat?

[More revs]

My Renault has an inclinometer?? It can tell when you get off the gas going down hill and soon as it's safe it will change down a gear.. also crusing along straight and level it will kick down soon as there's an incline even without altering the throttle. Obviously it's an auto..

i don't know why I shared that but there you are...

[eXtremist]

Originally Posted by Zetec20

what about engine braking on a flat?

Same thing with engine braking on a flat surface.

It wont use any fuel as long as your not accelerating.

[Whitey Ford]

Originally Posted by Zetec20

what about engine braking on a flat?

If the throttle position is zero and the wheels are turning the engine (engine braking) then it wont use any petrol.

[20focus05]

Originally Posted by zetec

Time to take it out for a good solid "blow out the cobwebs" drive. Interesting since it's running on top grade fuel too.

We once had a BA XT Falcon V8 manual come in to my old Dealership as a used car, it was an absolute dog at first, but a week with one of our used car salesmen and it was a completely different car, like someone had woken the thing up. He caned the thing daily to see if it would make a difference and it was a honey of a thing after that. I wonder if sometimes a lot of engines don't lubricate properly if not driven hard enough?

I have found this with a few customers cars especially the take it real easy drivers. One I remember the most was a toyota cresida mid 80's fuel injected came in for minor service and gave the throttle body a wipe out around butterfly, warmed it up. Then gave it to it on the open road afew times like you where in a hurry to overtake someone but up to 150ks. Well the owner came back about a week or so later and said the car ran better than ever and was getting better fuel economy. clean the cobwebs out

[eXtremist]

Carbon is a natural byproduct of the combustion process and is vented through the exhaust system. It is normal for a thin layer of carbon to cover the parts of the engine and exhaust that come into contact with the combustion process or engine exhaust. Since the introduction of unleaded fuel, carbon deposits have been greatly reduced. Normally, carbon does not present a problem.

However, through the introduction of contaminents such as oil or overly rich air/fuel ratios, carbon build-up can become excessive and reduce engine performance and require costly service or repairs.

Driving habits can also impact the amount of carbon build up. Highway driving tends to cause the engine to get sufficiently hot so as to burn away some contaminents that would otherwise become deposits. Unfortunately, short trips tend to promote the build up of carbon deposits. Having said that, in general, there are two main causes of excessive carbon buildup; burned oil and overly rich air/fuel mixtures.

Oil-based carbon build-up occurs when piston rings become worn and oil is able to leak past the rings from the crankcase. Oil can also leak from valves into the combustion chamber. Typically oil-based deposits appear as dark black and have a gummy, tar-like consistency.

Carbon tends to coat any surface that may be exposed to either the combustion process or handle engine exhaust. It is often most evident on fuel injectors, engine valves and combustion chambers. Deposits also form on the throttle body, spark plugs, intake manifold as well as in the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors. If carbon buildup is present in the EGR passages, it is probably the result of oil leaking down the valve stems. An automobile that is burning oil will tend to emit exhaust that has a bluish tint and may be a little heavier than normal.

By contrast, fuel-based carbon build-up occurs when an engine burns an excessively rich air/fuel mixture. Too much fuel will tend to produce a relatively large amount of carbon waste that is not as thick as oil deposits but it is hard, dry and tougher to remove.

Causes of fuel-based deposits often include a computer fault, a bad or leaking fuel injector or other potential reasons that cause and excessive amount of fuel to be burned during the combustion process.

In general, carbon deposits can cause a drastic drop in both fuel economy and performance. Because so many automobiles on the road rely on computers and sensors for optimal engine performance, it is easy to see how carbon deposits can play havoc with modern engines. For example, most automobiles rely on an onboard computer to adjust the air/fuel ratio in accordance to the O2 readings for optimal performance. Because oxygen sensors are exposed to engine exhaust, it is easy to see how susptible they are to contamination from carbon-deposits. Incorrect oxygen sensor readings causes the computer to make performance adjustments based on incorrect data.

Particularly thick deposits also tends to increase engine compression simply because the carbon deposits take up more space inside the combustion chamber. Abnormally high compression may result in spark knock (detonation), particularly when driving under load or accelerating. In more extreme conditions, if carbon deposits are thick enough, the top of the piston may actually come into contact with the carbon-coated cylinder head or valves. When this happens, the sound resembles a hammer noise or like a rod bearing has gone bad.

Carbon build-up can also result in excessive auto emissions. Here's how: An excessively rich fuel mixture or burned oil can create a heavy carbon residue that coats the inside of the catalytic converter. If left unchecked, excessive carbon deposits can make the catalytic converter ineffective at burning residual fuel vapors (hydrocarbons). A sufficiently compromised catalytic converter will need to be replaced. In addition, if your state requires annual auto emissions testing, you may fail simply because your catalytic converter is unable to reduce your vehicle's auto emissions.

Here are a number of signs to keep an eye out for if you suspect carbon build-up:
Engine pinging
Hesitation
Poor acceleration
Spark knock
Lack of power
Carbon coated spark plug
Repeated stalling in cold weather
Thick, bluish exhaust
Engine ping or a hammering sound

To treat carbon build-up there are off the shelf fuel addatives that tend to reduce or treat carbon build-up. In addition, there are more thorough carbon cleaning option available at most service facilities. Some of these solutions involve special chemicals, pumps and vacuum devices or blasting equipment to remove stubborn deposits.

If your engine has excessive carbon deposits, parts of the engine may need to be disassembled to do a thorough cleaning. Also, keep in mind that to do a thorough job, the intake manifold should also be removed to clean the carbon buildup from the inside of the manifold.

[BrisVegas]

Just ran a full tank of 91 RON (49 litres) and got 675kms of city and highway driving out of it. (5spd man). 7.27l/100km average!

Interestingly, the trip computer told me I had 2 kms left in the tank, but it only took 49 litres, so there must have been at least 5 litres in there still.

I put 98RON back in the tank and will see if it does any better.

[mixo]

thats awsome, My wife auto focus get around 12-13 around town driving.I have managed to get it down to 11.5 with a bit of freeway driving and this was on vortex.Now i am trying the 91 ron stuff.

mixo

[FRA]

Originally Posted by BrisVegas

Just ran a full tank of 91 RON (49 litres) and got 675kms of city and highway driving out of it. (5spd man). 7.27l/100km average!

Interestingly, the trip computer told me I had 2 kms left in the tank, but it only took 49 litres, so there must have been at least 5 litres in there still.

I put 98RON back in the tank and will see if it does any better.

When the fuel light comes on we can still drive around for good hour.
Even when I put in a full tank of fuel, I'm still a few litres off 55L

[FRA]

Originally Posted by mixo

thats awsome, My wife auto focus get around 12-13 around town driving.I have managed to get it down to 11.5 with a bit of freeway driving and this was on vortex.Now i am trying the 91 ron stuff.

mixo

You should try 95-98 ron, you'll get few more km.
You might need to change your automatic transmission fluid, 12-13 is a little bit to high for the auto.
How many km do you get out of a full tank of fuel?
After I did the automatic transmission I was low 9 to mid 10.
I also work out L/100km by how much fuel go's in at the servo, sometimes I can only get 47L in the tank...lol

[Martyvan]

The Fuel light comes on very late in the Focii... or very early in my car of another manufacturer.... Light on in focus is about 46-48 litres, light on in Corolla, 39 litres. Both are 55 litre tanks.

My Focii gets about 10.8 litres per 100km over the past 16 months, running on 95-98.
95% of my driving is short trips, the car doesnt like that at all at the moment, unfortunately, but i dont think i have turned off the air con in the entire time i have had it!

Dont take it on the highway all that often as it revs too high... Our Corolla is an auto and only revs at 2300rpm on the highway! (Probably the ONLY good thing about it)

And FRA, I saw you a few weeks ago turning onto the gateway motorway off Wynnum road.... your car would be at home sitting on the driveway of a futuristic movie set... it has more stuff hanging off the body that a piercing specialist. (No offence of course)

[FRA]

No offence taken.
So what movie set should my Focus be on?

[Steffo]

Reading this thread is really surprising... alot of your Focuses drink... ALOT.

Our Golf 2.0 FSI (110kW 200Nm) averages 7.5L/100km and is driven about 70% city cycle....

[Martyvan]

Originally Posted by Steffo

Reading this thread is really surprising... alot of your Focuses drink... ALOT.

Our Golf 2.0 FSI (110kW 200Nm) averages 7.5L/100km and is driven about 70% city cycle....

If you think my Focus likes a drink, my wife drives the Corolla 12km each way to and from work, in fairly dense traffic, and it is currently returning 12.2 litres per 100km over the last 6 weeks...!! (2002 Auto Wagon!) Maybe its the DVD system in it that chews the power, which she leaves on all the time....

But it is still quiet on the highway.

Whatever car we purchase next, It will be TDI, the wagon would hopefully be replaced by Mondeo if that comes in a wagon... Or I would have to move across to VW for the space required....

[eXtremist]

I've pumped my tyres up to 37psi, and filled the car up with 98 octane fuel with upto 10% ethanol and I've noticed quite a huge difference in kilometers to a tank.

Its dropped from about 13km/L to 9km/L, the car has 4,800kms.

[BrisVegas]

1hr 45min commute this morning in Brissie (on the Ipswich Motorway).... that's not gonna help my fuel consumption!

[Martyvan]

Originally Posted by BrisVegas

1hr 45min commute this morning in Brissie (on the Ipswich Motorway).... that's not gonna help my fuel consumption!

Ipswich Carpark..... At least when its idling you only use about 1.5 litres per hour.....

I have a 17km trip over the gateway bridge from near chermside to tingalpa to get to work.... and given there really isnt an alternative way to go except through the city, once you are on there, you are stuck... I hate sitting in first gear going up/over the bridge, its a bit unnerving sitting on the very top section and you can feel it moving as cars going the other way drive across the expansion gaps... thats just spoooky..... Sorry for the rant... I dislike traffic as well...

[BrisVegas]

Coming from Springfield, i have a choice of where Id like to be stick in traffic. I can go via the Centenary Motorway and be stuck at the Ipswich Motorway intersection AND the backup from Toowong to Fig Tree Pocket... or I can go in via Ipswich Road over the Story Bridge and be in heavy traffic all the way in and over the bridge.

C'mon 2010 and the Springfield train!