Stereo Wiring EF

[infusion]

hey guys im running amp/stereo wiring etc tomoz..

just wondering is there any tips for running the Red cable through the firewall to the rear...

and any tips on getting sterero wiring through the rubber thingy between the door and body on the front doors.

any other tips?

im running an alpine head deck 3 pre outs

10 inch sub
Mb Quart 6 1/2 inch splits in front doors.. ( good place to mount the tweeters? anyone?)

and a alpine v12 which i will run the sub and front splits off...


Oh yeah one other question... the sound deadening material that seems to be in the doors, when i fit my speaker in the hole it pushs the material against the window causing rubbing.. can i just cut out that tiny but covering the back of the speaker or does it protect it if water runs down the inside of the door..

thankyou in advance!!

cheers guys!!

[eb91xr6]

if your cars auto go through where the clutch cable goes

[infusion]

manual lol :eclipsee_

[eb91xr6]

well i drilled mine neer the steering, i ran 4 gage wire i can take a pic tomorrow if you like

[infusion]

Originally Posted by eb91xr6

well i drilled mine neer the steering, i ran 4 gage wire i can take a pic tomorrow if you like

so you drilled yours? didnt run it with the existing loom?

[OED666]

i ran my 4 gauge through a hole in near the brake booster... its slightly hidden away. run your power and amp signal wire on the same side. run your rca's on a separate side.

[eb91xr6]

not a 4 gage wire

[Sorted]

Originally Posted by OED666

run your power and amp signal wire on the same side. run your rca's on a separate side.

I was just typing that....bugger !

[eb91xr6]

yer i worked out the hard way they cant go the same side and had to do it all again

[infusion]

yeh thanx for the tip guys ill be running them separate sides..

anyone know about running wire to the doors?

[eb91xr6]

i didnt go that far for doors i said stock wire was good enough for the front, well it was for me and im not that lazy

[sphell]

use WD40 to get wires through door rubbers easier.

[OED666]

Originally Posted by eb91xr6

not a 4 gage wire

what do you mean...

i did put a 4 gauge wire through a pre-drilled hole in my firewall...

[joolz]

I ran my power via behind the drivers headlight then inside the drivers guard under the liner then through an existing gromet behind the drivers kick panel next to the accelerator. No cables going through the engine bay and alot neater.

[infusion]

im using 4 gauge as well..

sooo far soo good ran rca and speaker cables down the passenger side of the car..

now im about to have a crack at getting the red cable through the firewall.. will let you know how it goes..

[OED666]

Originally Posted by joolz

I ran my power via behind the drivers headlight then inside the drivers guard under the liner then through an existing gromet behind the drivers kick panel next to the accelerator. No cables going through the engine bay and alot neater.

yea, thats another way of doing it...

also make sure your fuse is easily accessible, and closeish to the battery...

[infusion]

alot easier than i thought guys... now im up too wiring the splits in the doors...

does anyone know if that moulding behind the speaker that covers the back of it protects it from rain?

because my new splits is causing it to rub against the window.. i was going to cut abit of it out but then i was worried it might protect it from water... any ideas?

[OED666]

i dont have it on my drivers door, but i will be putting it back soon. ed's have thin plastic stuff, and i am in the process of replacing it with EF insulation.

My drivers speaker is fine without anything covering it, so you could cut only as much as you need off.

[infusion]

quick question.. how the hell do u dissconnect the inner arm from the central locking so you can remove the inner door completly?

[OED666]

you shouldnt have to. you definitely dont want to remove the rod for the door handle. they are a pain in the ****...

from memory this is how i take the insulation off...

door trim off, then speaker out. then peel forward the insulation, and lift up over the snipper button rod. then you should be able to slide the insulation towards the front of the car...

[infusion]

i need to dissconnect the rod latch so i can take the trim off.. otherwise i cant take it off

[Jet-Star]

Grab the rod with some pliars and then twist the door handle by hand in the appropiate direction to remove the rod from the clip. Hard to discribe....But you'll get it.

[OED666]

if you could get a pic of that your having trouble with i can help you...

[infusion]

its kool guys i got it

thanx for all your help so far.. will be finished hopefully tomoz..

[infusion]

all finished guys!! :1syellow1 :1syellow1 :1syellow1

just need to find a place in the boot to mount my amp and somthing that will hold my sub box down..

[OED666]

good stuff... i am also trying to think of somewhere out of the way to it an amp... keep us posted as to where you place it.... try not to put your amp upside down if possible... the heat will stay inside... (just incase you were thinking of mounting it under the rear parcel shelf)

[joolz]

Mounted my 2 amps under the parcel shelf but on a custom shelf so as the amps are the right way up and the controls are facing out in the boot. The distribution block is also on there and can be accessed by folding the seats down. The only hassle was the mounting bolt for the centre seat belt. The sub is secured the the carpet with the prickly part of velcro, it can be moved easily but wont slide around.

[OED666]

i like that... i have thought of doing something similar...