Running a cam on stock computer...

[santoitaliano]

hey all,

after last weekend i am now running a wade 977b...

anyone got any hints, advice or things to try to run this cam a bit better on stock computer without any chips, etc. The main thing i want to eliminate is the idle hunting...

any ideas?

thanks....

[BABOSS]

The only real way you can do it is to get a chip or aftermarket engine managment system.

[stockstandard]

I stumbled along some info recently saying that a lumpy idle can sometimes be smoothed out by playing around with the size of the MAP sensor hose. Small restrictions or open chambers in the line smooth out the pulses created by the cam and this helps the computer maintain a steady state with the cost being a small delay in the MAP sensor response time. This info was specifically for *BIG* cams, so im not sure how well it will work for the small cams we run on 4.0's but it might be worth a shot if you got some spare time on your hands.

[santoitaliano]

what are some cheap chips etc?

i think chiptorque is around 800 and unichip round 1200?

[sphell]

Originally Posted by FlasherEF

The only real way you can do it is to get a chip or aftermarket engine managment system.

not really, I got a Unichip on my EA and it still hunted for idle. I fixed it by adding a restrictor plate under the ISC and resetting base idle. It took a while for the ECU to learn the new idle but once it did it was fine. Just have a play around with it man, I know it's really frustrating but I'm pretty sure you'll be able to get it to idle well in the end. Stockstandard's idea sounds like it could work too....makes sense in theory.

[AshMan]

I think the engine idles lumpy because of the lack of vacuum present when the new cam is installed correct?

Maybe you could intercept the outputs from the map sensor, like the shift kit mod.

[sphell]

Originally Posted by AshMan

I think the engine idles lumpy because of the lack of vacuum present when the new cam is installed correct?

Maybe you could intercept the outputs from the map sensor, like the shift kit mod.

that's pretty much what a unichip does.

[AshMan]

ok I just did a bit of googling, and autospeed did an article that is called a digital fuel adjuster, which changed the MAP sensor output to an adjustable + or - value.

Which effectively will let you lean out or enrich your A/F ratio.

http://www.ftowa.com/html/workshop/workshopart11.html

[stockstandard]

The ford MAP sensors frequency based not voltage based like most others so unfortunately this sort of mod wont work.

[AshMan]

ahh bugger, somethings telling me an aftermarket unit might be the way to go.

[santoitaliano]

how does restrictor plate under isc work? sounds like my best bet... any negative effects of doing this?

[banarcus]

What about a frequency generator? For $30 from dick smiths, might be worth a shot?

[PULLY6]

Can we see a pic of the restrictor plate Sphell?

How does the 977b perform santo?

[stockstandard]

Originally Posted by PULLY6

Can we see a pic of the restrictor plate Sphell?

How does the 977b perform santo?

The restrictor plate is just some sheet metal cut to size with smaller holes in it. It reduces the effect of the ISC and stops the computer from making too big changes in idle. It did help a little in my car.

[EA2BA]

when my car would run right at all, no compression in cylinder 2, i had to completely block off my ISC and turn the idle up a fair bit, and set the timing to where it sounded good, got me out of trouble for a while, and the car ran pretty damn good actually.

[stockstandard]

Yep, the EEC has a complex (but good) way to control idle using both ISC and ignition timing. The problem is that once you throw things out too far these things start working against you. The killer is the ignition timing. Hook a timing light up and see how much its jumping around when the engine is lumpy. Then put it into diagnostic mode (or disconnect spout) to lock timing and see how much smoother everything gets.

Chipping and using the restrictor plate did help me get my car to idle. It went from bearly starting to this with chiptorque and ISC mod. Now though with the MS2 my idle is almost as good as the stock cam.

BTW: When you say its hunting, do you mean lump (rapid rise and fall in revs like mine) or a slow rise and fall over several seconds. Slow rise and fall in revs often means a vacuum leak.

[neb]

i tried the isc restrictor plate when i had my old wade cam in, it did work, it idled great but it wouldn't idle when it was cold i had to manually hold the accelerator for about 20seconds until it would idle. i found putting up the base idle would help this but then the base idle was getting quite high

[gthofan]

could it be the auto choke thats buggered, or dont fuel injected cars have 1??

[santoitaliano]

hrmm would vaccum leak effect brakes?

cheers,

[slamd ef wagon]

i email crow and the said

there are a number of problems it could be the first thing to do is to but on a set of wire wound ignition leads We use ICE ignition leads because I have found that have the best insulation but any quality wire wound lead will be ok
they cost $62.90 inc Tax
the Idle learned code should be cleared by taking the battery lead off for 60 seconds then
The next thing is to put a little more base idle on it usually between 1/2 and 1 and 11/2 turns
on EA-ED 2 degree's extra timing will help idle
I have also on occasions were the above has not helped loosened the idle position sensor and reposition were the car runs best at idle
If it still does not idle the cam position should be checked if the cylinder head has been machined this will retard the camshaft and effects idle dramatically The lift measured on the back of the inlet rocker measured directly over the valve should be .050" -.055" if this is incorrect you will need a vernier cam gear to adjust these are $158 inc Tax
Yours Ray


hope this helps mate