Finally Got evlelf dyno'd

[evlelf]

Originally Posted by bluethunder

Yeah id definately go c4, thats what ive got in my ea turbo. Only cost 1500 to fully rebuild, more clutches, c10 bits and full manual valve body with upped line pressures.. that was supplying the auto too. And converter cost me 700. I wouldn't go dominator though I found it too loose and had to get it redone for lower stall otherwise it revved its tits off everywhere even so called past the stall speed. Dont regret it one bit either, origionally had supra 5spd that i munched.

Who did your 3 speed conversion? and with the high stall what did it cost you all up???? i really want to do this, please helpppppppppp

[EFFalcon]

is your turbo internally or externally gated?

[evlelf]

Internally...

[evlelf]

Internally...

[dansedgli]

Get a cheap boost controller.

They are like $100 from autobarn and shops like that.

Cheaper on ebay if you have the time.

Where are you located? Ive got a boost T that will do the job that you can borrow.

[evlelf]

I have a turbosmart boost controller, it is set to max... which then relies on the actuator to hold as much boost as the spring will allow... it has a 7 pound spring and is holding 8 pound.. i need to hold about 11 pound, hence i need a 10-11 pound actuator... i think thats how it works, hang on i'll start a thread about turbo actuators

[bluethunder]

I did the conversion myself, I got bert kewish automatics to build it and I got the converter from dominator. The bellhousing I got from dellow automotive for 300. Heaps better design than the other one I had on, you can easily get your hands up the top of the engine to put in the bolts to start them and the bellhousings not in the way. I got my tailshaft shortened for $70 and the shifter kit cost me 350. Then stuff like oil cooler and mounting the rear of the auto which was easy, I just modified a standard mount to suit it.
All up cost me about 3000 which wasn't too bad, was my cheapest option (glad I didn't go manual when I think of it) other than getting a new manual that was strong enough.

[evlelf]

nah i decided against pising everyone off with another thread designed just to help me.. But if anyone knows, A turbo actuator.. does it have to be specific to the turbo? or will any actuator fit any application?
If it is a 7 pound actuator will it only hold 7 pound? or is the minimum 7 pound??? Having said this, the actuator screws in to a certain point, if i get a 10 pound actuator and screw it into the same point, will it hold the same amount as the 7 pound ? or will it hold 11 pound (taking into account the 7 pound actuator held 8 pound at that screw point)

[dansedgli]

You got the boost controller in wrong if its only holding 8 psi.

The actuator spring set at 7 psi means that is the minimum it can do. You need a boost controller to get it above 7 psi.

there is an arrow on the controller saying which way the hose should go through it.

If you have it on max and its only going to 8 I'd say you either have it on the minimum setting or the controller needs to be turned around.

go to www.turbosmart.com.au and check their instructions pages.

I had one on my AU raising the boost from 6 psi to about 12 with no troubles before I got an Eboost.

[dansedgli]

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/images/...FG-GBCV-BT.PDF

If you look here you can see that the arrow on the controller needs to point towards the actuator.

If you have it this way then your controller is set on mininum not maximum. If it was on maximum then no air would get to the actuator and it wouldnt open. If it doesnt open the boost just goes up and up.

[evlelf]

I had it dyno'd at mikes in dandy on friday, and they looked at it and said in the beginning it was on low boost, i said no its on max... they looked closer and got a bit confused but then conceded it was on high boost... And only got 8 pound, it is setup with the arrow facing the right way, and screwed all the way out... If anyone lives locally near Mordialloc/chelsea i'd appreciate a second opinion

[dansedgli]

If its in right and the the dial is turned the right way then maybe it is broken.

Sounds like its broken, is it under warranty still?

Take it off and wind it shut and see if you can blow through it with the the dial at different settings.

It should get harder to blow through the more closed you make the valve.
Take it straight off and see if you can blow through it at the setting it is on now, if you can turn it in the opposite direction and see if its the same. If so Its time for a new one.

If its at the max boost setting you shouldnt be able to blow through it.

[evlelf]

brb... going to blow on my turbo... wait, i mean, blow in my controller ;)

[evlelf]

ИИИИ.. dont i feel stupid.. i walked out the front and i thought my car had been stolen, its at absolute automatics, gettin a new trans.. i'll have to test it tomorrow. Thanks for your help i'll post up when i know

[dansedgli]

Wait dont bother, I just tried it on mine and it didnt do anything, I cant blow through it at all, with the dial both in and out.

Check how it is plumbed in while your there.

[stockstandard]

you got a scan or pic of the dyno graph?

[needfordspeed]

Originally Posted by evlelf

ИИИИ.. dont i feel stupid.. i walked out the front and i thought my car had been stolen, its at absolute automatics, gettin a new trans.. i'll have to test it tomorrow. Thanks for your help i'll post up when i know

hahahahhahaha!! that cracked me up!!!

[Rollin]

ok, here is how boost control works:

normally, there is a flap in the turbo (internal gate) or in the wastegate (external) that is held in the normally closed position (blocking exhaust gasses from getting through) so all the exhaust gasses go through the turbo, spooling it up.

the flap is attached to a rod with a diaphragm, which has a spring acting on it to keep the flap shut.

a hose goes from the intake manifold to the wastegate, so as boost pressure rises it acts on the diaphragm, against the spring, to force the flap open, and let exaust gasses bypass the turbo.

making the spring stiffer raises the boost pressure because there needs to be more force applied to the spring to make the flap start to open.

alternately you can interfere with the amount of boost pressure getting to the diaphragm, by bleeding the air in the hose - this is what boost controllers do. the bigger the air bleed, the more boost you run.

boost controllers are good because you can also shape the boost curve to your liking, ie make the boost come on hard and taper off, or soft and peak really high, to curb wheelspin.

if you can only get 8psi with a boost controller then i think its stuffed....

[evlelf]

ok.. that makes good sense, that was how i hoped it worked, one issue though.. the hose is not coming from my intake manifold, it is going from the bottom of the compressor housing to the side of the actuator!!!!!

I have a 7 pound actuator, and its screwed out just far enough to hold the gates shut.. we tried screwing it out more (on advice from avo) and the gates were held open constanlty.. sounding like a truck and letting all boost straight out. If anyone is local again, i ask, before i go to calder on friday night, i really want 11 pound of boost, not 8.. PLEASE HELPPPPPPPP

[sphell]

you have to screw the actuator arm IN to get more boost (ie, shorten it). That will hold the wastegate shut tighter and will require more boost to open it. It's probably not the best way to do it but it will work. It sounds like something is wrong with your boost controller. It should be able to hold boost up to the turbo's capacity.

[evlelf]

If i screw it in any more it wont hook to the hinge point... argh

[sphell]

yeah that's alright, that means that you'll have to pull on it too hook it onto the hinge point. That also means that the spring in the wastegate will be slightly compressed. Which also means that it will require more boost to open the wastegate. 11psi should be no problem

Just make sure you don't screw it in so far that there is no travel left in the spring. Otherwise the wastegate won't be able to open and the turbo will just keep boosting until the motor blows.

[evlelf]

Originally Posted by sphell

yeah that's alright, that means that you'll have to pull on it too hook it onto the hinge point. That also means that the spring in the wastegate will be slightly compressed. Which also means that it will require more boost to open the wastegate. 11psi should be no problem

Just make sure you don't screw it in so far that there is no travel left in the spring. Otherwise the wastegate won't be able to open and the turbo will just keep boosting until the motor blows.

Thank you very much sphell!!!! i did that this afternoon, managed to hook it on, and its up to 10 pound now, thank you very much for your advice and help. I am going to calder park tomorrow night for the people that were interested. Feel free to come up and say hi, i'd love to meet ya

[Southy]

dude i saw your ride at All ford day! looked Awesome as mate top stuff. cheers

[sphell]

Originally Posted by evlelf

Thank you very much sphell!!!! i did that this afternoon, managed to hook it on, and its up to 10 pound now, thank you very much for your advice and help. I am going to calder park tomorrow night for the people that were interested. Feel free to come up and say hi, i'd love to meet ya

No worries, I'll be at calder tomorrow nite. I wanna see this thing run ;)

[Grub73]

Oooohhh dear Mak ,,,,, beaten by the boss... again.. looks like he didn't need nitrous after all ROFLOL:->

[Grub73]

107 is a great mph though.. once sorted should do high 12's