AU H'Gaskets & Decompression plate.. turbo time..

EF_Frmnt · 18-03-2006, 02:45 PM

hey all just wondering those of you out there that are running au headgaskets what (if any) differences are there to sort out? I have heard that a few of the coolant holes are slightly different but i would love to know from those that have actually done it.

As the thread title states.. its turbo time.. my 99% stock EFII Fairmont is about to get a big shock. In the next few weeks the motor will be coming out and getting rebuilt by myself and a friend. While it is out it will be getting new rings and bearings gaskets and seals throughout the whole motor. A decompression plate will be put in as well with an AU headgasket going in either side of the plate. The aim is to rebuild for a bit more reliability for the upcoming turbo. Initial plans are to run at 5psi with no intercooler until the finances are there to setup a water to air intercooler and uprated fuel system. I have also acquired an LSD 3.45 diff so i dont go single wheeling everywhere

any help or advice on the turbo and/or au headgaskets would be greatly appreciated.

Also thanks to Snortingboost for all his help regarding my turbo kit.

EFFalcon · 18-03-2006, 03:01 PM

AU Gasket just goes straight on.
nothing has to be done about the holes etc.
i've been using one on my car for a while now without any issues, there are a few turbo cars that are using 2 AU headgaskets (no headshim) so that may be an option.

EF_Frmnt · 18-03-2006, 03:38 PM

I was under the impression that the AU gaskets were slightly thinner..? My head has had 20 thou' taken off (.5 of a mm) so the decomp plate is a definite inclusion. What tension did you run on your headbolts? Or did you use a stud kit i know this will be something i will get as the studs will seat right down to the bottom of the thread and be a bit stronger. glad to see you back on here you were the only mod who was remotely interesting with your flouro green engine bay..

EFFalcon · 18-03-2006, 03:44 PM

hahaha, not much fluro in there anymore ;)
The AU headgaskets are thinner then the standard ones, how ever the use of 2 lowers the compression a tad.
if you're after super low compresison then for the the decomp plate but a few proven setups (including the 10 second EA - ea ba turbo) are running twin AU headgaskets.

torque settings for the single gasket are 30nm + 120 degrees.
I'm not sure what you'd use if you had multiple gaskets and/or headshim.

EF_Frmnt · 18-03-2006, 03:53 PM

ok then.. its going to prove an interesting experiment. I noticed the dissappearance of the green over time as the intake tract grew more efficient. its given me an idea or two though might go the fake carbon fibre look on my under bonnet plastics..

snorting boost and myself have been talking about the possibilty of putting a water to air intercooler and possibly a 7th injector instead of a rising rate regulator. We have so many options just time and money are going to be the restraints so any advice from people that have already done a turbo conversion would help.

HSVETAR · 18-03-2006, 04:36 PM

So by useing a Au head gasket, i can rais my compression a bit. How much would it raise it? or is it even worth the bother?

EFFalcon · 18-03-2006, 04:50 PM

i prolly wouldn't bother changing the headgasket just for the hell of it.
yes the AU headgasket will raise compression, i can't recall how much though.

the only time it would be worth it would be if the head was coming off for another reason.
the AU headgasket is less prone to blowing also.

EF_Frmnt · 18-03-2006, 04:56 PM

It wouldnt be worth pulling it off just to put the gasket in.. if you ring a decent engine reconditioning place you should be able to get your head reconditioned for about 300 and they should be able to machine your head along with that. take off about 40 thou slip an au headgasket in and youll be cheering

snortingboost · 18-03-2006, 06:37 PM

Hey stoff, i don't think we will have any issues with the headgasket as they are virtually the same old. If there is any diff between them we will notice when comparing the two. You forgot to mention changing over to an EL ecu and tossing the EF with its coil pack, i'd like to know if anyone has done this before but i can't see any reason why there would be any real trobles. Just have to add and change a few wires/relays in the loom to hook up the dizzy, run the coil and the fans, other then that it should be sweet. By the way, overtightening the head bolts/studs can crack the block so i'll be adding very little tension when torquing up that head. Head studs won't be torque to yeild bolts and may require a totally different tightening sequence. Anyway we'll discuss that later.
Snortperformance_We make our own speed!

EF_Frmnt · 18-03-2006, 06:46 PM

Mr Rumples you are correct.. i forgot all about that as well. EF with the coil pack ignition is not optimum for running boost so we are going to convert it to EL spec dizzy so we are able to retard the timing at boost to prevent detonation. so hows the progress on the white beast going any ideas on the richness at idle yet?? ill have to come check that thing out some time next week.

EB Pete · 18-03-2006, 10:18 PM

about the compression. i'm rebuilding my eb at the moment and got 11 though shaved off the head. if i use the au head gasket that should up the compression a bit more? if so what series?

Aaron_EF8 · 18-03-2006, 11:57 PM

If you're rebuilding the EF motor, why would you put a de-compression plate in? Just do it properly, and fit low compression pistons. A decompression plate needs 2 head gaskets, so theres double the chance you will blow one, then there's the issue of the timing chain, because the head is at a different height.

BOOSTDEF · 19-03-2006, 01:07 AM

low comp pistons are $1300....

when these $300 motors are running 10 second passes with 2 head gaskets, whats the point. Timing chain works off tensioners, so it still be sweet.

Anyway to the dizzy issue, you are best to stay coil pack and get engine management. But if by any chance you are looking to keep it stock for a while you probably wont be able to go over 6psi(i couldnt at that stage).

I got a wolf and an M&W igniter for the coil packs and its easily done.

What did you have in mind with the ecu?

Aaron_EF8 · 19-03-2006, 01:12 AM

He states in the first post he is getting the motor rebuilt, probably the biggest part of a rebuild is getting the cylinders bored, and new pistons fitted.

$1300 for pistons? I think someone's trying to rip you off if that's the best quote you've got.

LUXO_8 · 19-03-2006, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aaron_EF8

$1300 for pistons? I think someone's trying to rip you off if that's the best quote you've got.

i have to agree here, my whole 347 stroker kit (ok, less rings and bearings) was 1500, so 1300 for 6 slugs is screaming ripoff

BOOSTDEF · 19-03-2006, 01:20 AM

Do you know of any cheaper pistons?? Thats basically a very quick search a couple of weeks ago, but i could be way off.

Fair wnough if hes going to rebore and so on, but if its proven what they can run consistently with a "good" tune, why go to all the hassle. And for 6-8psi?? you are really not troubling a slightly decompressed motor that much, as long as your not running it lean.

snortingboost · 19-03-2006, 03:47 PM

We're pulling the engine out mainly to do the sump gasket (yes i know, i could just drop the K frame), a check of the bottom end and all the small things like squaring up the block. I figure while we're there a set of rings and bearings (200 bucks) with just a quick hone of the bore will be all thats needed for up to 12psi. If money was no issue and wolf wasn't an unreliable peice of ИИИИ then we'd go that way, it's just that i've heard far too many bad results from these things and spending money at the dyno week after week is not going to happen. Reason for not slotting in the good slugs comes down to a budget as usual and it's much preferred to make the mistakes on the cheap engine then a fully bombed up job. As for running with two headgaskets, that's a chance i'm willing to take considering this engine has done a gasket within 5K's of the previous replacement which i might add was not replaced by me. If it clears things up a little, OS Giken use a one inch thick steel head shim and two headgaskets to bring there 2.6 gtr up to 3.0 litre along with the associated stroker kit at a cost of 30 grand US. Seems that 1500hp and two headgaskets don't cause any troubles there so i can't see it stuffing things up on this providing we do it properly. I guess we'll just have to wait and see, the more the better.

Aaron_EF8 · 19-03-2006, 04:25 PM

Check this thread - http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthr...series+pistons

You're right, you don't HAVE to decompress the motor, but why not do it properly the first time? $700 will not be the biggest cost to the turbo setup, unless you're getting all the parts dirt cheap.

EF_Frmnt · 19-03-2006, 09:08 PM

$675 seems like a good price for a full rebuild kit as thats including pistons bearings gaskets seals etc. but that still doesnt say they are dished.. and i doubt they would be for that price so that still leaves us with standard compression just more money thrown into the bottom end.. and as snorting boost said i dont want to spend sh*tloads and then have the motor die cos of a small mistake we make tuning or if im a bit too enthusiastic..

But in saying that i would love to be able to go the all out forged pistons new conrods balanced crank flywheel balancer etc but i just cant afford it right now. The whole idea of this first stage is to try get it running 5 pound as cheaply and reliable as possible in the short term. The motor rebuild is because of a chance we have to pull the motor out because of said headgasket failure (the part failed and is being redone under warranty) but we would be stupid not to take advantage of this opportunity to freshen up the motor, not go all out just freshen up

And as for the rebuilding itself.. it will be undertaken by snortingboost and myself so all labour costs are being saved.

The main reason we are thinkin of pulling the coil pack out is because its very easy to retard the timing slightly with the dizzy of an EL it also saves a bit more money instead of going for a 1500 dollar autronic or something similar. That is all in the plans for ahead but as for the moment just trying to go the cheap to experiment with our boundaries power and reliability wise.

Thanks for all the comments and such guys it all helps.

EF_Frmnt · 22-03-2006, 09:02 PM

I have decided after much research on water to air and air to air intercoolers to go with a simple air to air front mount to once again reduce costs for the intial setup.. performance gain is really not that significant for the insane prices they demand for water to air.

I also picked up another head today.. so we are going to be building a complete motor out of the car and then swapping it over so we have a spare one ready for any catastrophes.. Its basically going to be a complete motor built back to factory standards apart from the decomp plate and maybe some port an polish work to the chambers and intake/exhaust if money is ok.

Rollin · 22-03-2006, 09:39 PM

air to air > water to air*

also, there is a guy on performanceforums selling Haltech for a reasonable price, im getting an E6X, boost control solenoid and air temp sensor (apparently required) for just over $1300...

i think they even do plug-in ECUs for EF/ELs so you may be in luck, IIRC the plug-in model specific ones are around $900

*for any situation other than on a dyno, IMHO

EF_Frmnt · 22-03-2006, 10:02 PM

Is that a plug in haltech model specific?? By plug in ecu do you mean run all the factory stuff ie smartlock vacuum switching etc as per normal but have the independent tunability of an aftermarket ecu?

I heard you went for a spin with mrsnortingboost in his commo wagoon? should see the ol xf he has hiding in the shed ;)