Broken engine mount...WTF?

bakes_eb · 02-04-2006, 08:23 PM

Broke another engine mount last night at willowbank is it possible to get stroger ones as this is my 2nd one 2 months.
scott

EDXR6T · 02-04-2006, 08:46 PM

wut are you using
nylothon (how ever u spell it) or rubber?

bakes_eb · 02-04-2006, 08:48 PM

i think they r rubber mate but not totally sure

Damo · 02-04-2006, 09:30 PM

what did you run at willowbank more importantly ?

AshMan · 02-04-2006, 09:34 PM

Dude use original ford ones. If I remember correctly, they were $2 cheaper each than repco's nolathane ones, and they lasted for the rest of the time I had the EA (about 6 months). after that, I pulled them out and sold them!

also check your gearbox mount isn't cactus, it could be making your motor go on a weird angle.

Failing that, get a chain welded from the side of the engine bay to the bracket on the engine block side.

Haven't seen this first hand but im told its very effective.

Rollin · 02-04-2006, 09:34 PM

i have found the factory ford mounts to be the strongest, i busted a repco one 4 days after installing it!

get a genuine ford one, and weld a small steel bar across the 'tangs' that come out of the side of it, so that the 'T' bar they use as a travel-stop is entirely encapsulated and cannot bend out.

i have found with my mounts that as you use them, the 'T' piece of metal gets bent out and it can no longer act as a travel-stop, so the entire torque of the engine is taken by the rubber, and it isnt strong enough.

if you dont get what i mean, take a photo of the mount and i will draw on it where you need to weld the bar in.

EB Pete · 02-04-2006, 09:41 PM

can you get the genuine ford mounts from repco?

NZ · 02-04-2006, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EB Pete

can you get the genuine ford mounts from repco?

No. Just like you cant buy repco oil from ford

EB Pete · 02-04-2006, 09:57 PM

fair enough. good point.

bakes_eb · 03-04-2006, 03:49 PM

yeh mine where the repco ones so yeh might give the ford ones a go thanx guys.
And i ran a 15.8 so i was pretty happy consideribg it was my 1st outing and car was running crap.

XRated · 03-04-2006, 05:20 PM

Anyone got a doco on how to change 'em? And gear box ones??

AshMan · 03-04-2006, 05:34 PM

Car on ramps, take weight of engine (preferably with hoist, or trolley jack under sump (don't dent it!)), undo bolts from block and the long bolt from chassis, undo bracket off old mount, put on new mount, bolt bracket and mount back onto sump, take weight off engine till long bolt on chassis is lined up, put bolt in and do up.

Repeat on other side, then go for a drive and retighten bolts (sometimes Ive found the loosen!)

I think with the transmission just involves taking the weight on the tranny and removing the crossmember.

Pretty easy with a few spanners and socket set.

(use the new nuts you are given with the new mount, too!)

03-04-2006, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XRated

Anyone got a doco on how to change 'em? And gear box ones??

The safe way: Basically put the car on ramps, put some support under the engine enough to take pressure of the engine mount, undo the bolts and refit with a new one!

What I did on my old pulsar: Jacked the car up with emergency spare jack via the cross member, put a cinderblock under the oil sump, jacked the car back down until the engine started to raise, undid the mount, replaced the mount, pushed the car off the cinder block and jack. :thebirds:

volcom20 · 04-04-2006, 10:40 AM

If your interested in how to never break an engine mount again, I think my old man has some ideas :P

Back in the day of his 71' V8 Manaro, (About 450BHP, he worked it :P), breaking engine mounts seemed to be too common for him lol, so what they did was welded a piece of solid bar from below the mount (or beside it) over the top and down to the other side. They left quite an ammount of gap between this bar and the top of the mount, it also had some sore of phat rubber gromit on it.

So basically, when he put his foot down, then engine twisted and could only go as far as this big ol' bar.

My old man had his bolted down so it was removable, but I said welding because... Muh, because I got side tracked :P

You only need a bar like above on the pulling side of the engine (The right side, as if you were looking at the boot, so the left if you were looking at the engine bay front on)

fmc351 · 05-04-2006, 12:15 AM

Having changed all 3 mounts on an EA only a month or so back I should be able to recall if theres adequate space on the mount, but I cant so anyway.

Simplest and very effective method is to drill a hole in the mount from plate to plate through the rubber. (make sure its not going to be covered by the mount brackets at either end).

Insert one decent bolt, and fit nut. tighten, but not overtighten. The mount still allows for vibration absorbtion (thats the rubbers job), but doesnt allow it to overstress the rubber in an upward direction (breaking mount). They dont need to flex upwards, the rubber just needs to absorb vibration, so stopping it from having any upward movement is a good thing. Think about solid mounts, they do that exactly, but do not absorb vibration which is why we like rubber mounts. The bolt gives me the best of both worlds.

Works on my warm Clevo anyway.

oh yeah, if its MPFI, enjoy doing the passenger side mount. Just a hint, get a new oil filter. Its removal makes the job a tad easier.