I like pulling my car apart... - Page 4

Christiaan · 26-12-2006, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EFFalcon

standard AU bottom end better then a built EF Bottom end? not a chance.
the BLOCK itself may be better, but decent pistons and rods in an EF bottom end will make for a better motor.

Better or stronger ?

The design of the AU bottom end is alot STRONGER, and will provide longevity.

Christiaan · 26-12-2006, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EFFalcon

standard AU bottom end better then a built EF Bottom end? not a chance.
the BLOCK itself may be better, but decent pistons and rods in an EF bottom end will make for a better motor.

And what do you consider a 'built' bottom end?

A balanced crank, new pistons, conrods and bearings? As well as seals?

A rebuilt AU bottom end, with race spec components as well as decompression, will provide a stronger motor.

EFFalcon · 26-12-2006, 06:20 PM

yes, but at no point has anyone said to build an au bottom end, simply to go and get an au motor and put it in.
as for built bottom end, yes, what you specified would be what i'd be looking at doing, i'm fairly sure this is the route steve is looking at, (judging by his cost estimates anyway)

a built AU bottom end is simply going to add more to the cost, and the gains may not be worth it.
it means he has to source an AU bottom end, the custom sump and go about the custom bracketry. just more time to be added to the build.

**Professor Farnsworth** · 26-12-2006, 06:31 PM

let the guy do what he wants for christ's sake, it's his car. it's one thing to give helpful advice, but the way some people on here almost get ANGRY about what other people are or aren't doing to their own cars, is ridiculous.

XR_Lightning · 26-12-2006, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrcrackers

let the guy do what he wants for christ's sake, it's his car. it's one thing to give helpful advice, but the way some people on here almost get ANGRY about what other people are or aren't doing to their own cars, is ridiculous.

I was just reading through all this and was thinking exactly the same thing, why are people getting so angry over something thats got nothing to do with them and will not affect them in anyway if done, rmyers do what you think is the best option

Jason[98.EL] · 26-12-2006, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrcrackers

let the guy do what he wants for christ's sake, it's his car. it's one thing to give helpful advice, but the way some people on here almost get ANGRY about what other people are or aren't doing to their own cars, is ridiculous.

i agree

rymers i think what you are doing is the only way to go

reason its what YOU want to do

do it and prove them all wrong with all the crap that they go on with it will be better this or that way

do what YOU want its how you want or need it to be for your enjoyability

jason

Christiaan · 26-12-2006, 08:46 PM

There is no custom bracketry John, all that's involved is a custom sump (that the mob in QLD from ebay could supply), a standard AU alternator + alternator bracket. For the extra ~$600 for a stronger bottom end, it may be worth it.

EFFalcon · 26-12-2006, 08:52 PM

sorry yeah, the extra cost of AU Alt and bracket, plus those sumps are $250, and the block itself.
the question is, is it required.
how many people have exceeded the strength of an EF block.

old_mate · 26-12-2006, 09:57 PM

If he wasnt going to be changing the slugs, i'd be leaning towards the AU motor. If he is going to building a bottom end, better, easier and cheaper to build what he has. The better AU crank would help revs yes, but the thing will have a bit of boost, no need to rev it hard. Some prepped rods, ARP bolts, ACL slugs and that bottom end will hold 300rwkw without a sweat. The cost of the AU motor up front will pay for the ACL kit and a little of the machining cost

Christiaan · 27-12-2006, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EFFalcon

sorry yeah, the extra cost of AU Alt and bracket, plus those sumps are $250, and the block itself.
the question is, is it required.
how many people have exceeded the strength of an EF block.

Is it worth it? Steve has seemed to break a standard EF bottom end without hardly any road time!

I think it is worth it, yes.

Vote 1 for AU bottom end, rebuilt to ACL spec, decompressed, and the EF Tickford head plumped on top.

LTDHO · 27-12-2006, 01:02 AM

Does Pyroay still run E series motor?

snypereb · 27-12-2006, 01:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shuresm58

Is it worth it? Steve has seemed to break a standard EF bottom end without hardly any road time!

I think it is worth it, yes.

Vote 1 for AU bottom end, rebuilt to ACL spec, decompressed, and the EF Tickford head plumped on top.

Do we even know why steve's car is making the noise it is yet? NO we dont I think he should pull it apart and fidn out what the problem is then assess what he is going to do and the funds that he has to do so.

And as for an AU bottom end............. pee double f tee.............. rebuild a stronger/tougher ef/el bottom end steve saves stuffing around trying to fit the AU which will take time and more money. And for the end results probably not worth it.

EFFalcon · 27-12-2006, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTDHO

Does Pyroay still run E series motor?

I'm pretty sure he's running au bottom end.

snypereb · 27-12-2006, 01:24 AM

Is it a necessity to go AU bottom end?

LTDHO · 27-12-2006, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EFFalcon

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTDHO

Does Pyroay still run E series motor?

I'm pretty sure he's running au bottom end.

Thanks John

Christiaan · 27-12-2006, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snypereb

Do we even know why steve's car is making the noise it is yet? NO we dont I think he should pull it apart and fidn out what the problem is then assess what he is going to do and the funds that he has to do so.

And as for an AU bottom end............. pee double f tee.............. rebuild a stronger/tougher ef/el bottom end steve saves stuffing around trying to fit the AU which will take time and more money. And for the end results probably not worth it.

Steve has said it's a bottom end noise, and that's all the information we have at the moment.

It's not a hassle to fit an AU bottom end to steve's car at all. One small modification to the sump by an alloy welder, and an AU Alternator + bracket.

All i'm saying, very politely I may add, is that if Steve is going to do it, he may as well do it right. As he has stated he wants to do. Until i informed him, he wasn't even sure if the AU bottom end would go into his car without cutting the k-frame. All i've done is give him another option, which may suit his needs better, for minimal extra cost.

No need to have a go at me for that, Snyper.

DEVL-XR · 27-12-2006, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shuresm58

Steve has said it's a bottom end noise, and that's all the information we have at the moment.

It's not a hassle to fit an AU bottom end to steve's car at all. One small modification to the sump by an alloy welder, and an AU Alternator + bracket.

All i'm saying, very politely I may add, is that if Steve is going to do it, he may as well do it right. As he has stated he wants to do. Until i informed him, he wasn't even sure if the AU bottom end would go into his car without cutting the k-frame. All i've done is give him another option, which may suit his needs better, for minimal extra cost.

No need to have a go at me for that, Snyper.

no ones having a go at you mate, but your've given your suggestion so you dont need to keep pushing the point. steve now knows your information so just let it go!! no hard feelings buddy!

Christiaan · 27-12-2006, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BradensEBxr6

no ones having a go at you mate, but your've given your suggestion so you dont need to keep pushing the point. steve now knows your information so just let it go!! no hard feelings buddy!

I'll keep pushing whatever I want to, mate.

It's all a big discussion, and i think if we continue to discuss, the arguments can be strengthened each way, and a better decision can be made.

kthxbye.

DEVL-XR · 27-12-2006, 01:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shuresm58

I'll keep pushing whatever I want to, mate.

It's all a big discussion, and i think if we continue to discuss, the arguments can be strengthened each way, and a better decision can be made.

kthxbye.

the decision isn't yours tho, its steve's. as i said your've given him your ideas and suggestions so its time to let it go.
hey steve juck in a V8, it'll be heaps better....

EFFalcon · 27-12-2006, 02:16 AM

whos to say using an EF block isnt 'doing it right'.
to put it simply, AU bottom end is a stronger more expensive option, EF bottom end is a stronger (just not quite as much as AU) cheaper option.

snypereb · 27-12-2006, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shuresm58

No need to have a go at me for that, Snyper.

Not having a go at you at all mate.

Im just saying that we should wait till he pulls the car apart and works out 100% whats wrong with it. Then he should make decisions. He may pull it apart and work out that its not nothing to do with the bottom end which for him prbably will be a big relief and may work to gettign the car on the road quicker.
This noise is very loud, sounds horrible and sounds like some serious damage internally. With any luck it is something small.

Sorry Yags not having a go at you!

Rmyers · 27-12-2006, 02:01 PM

My decision on what to do will all depend on how much money i can collect in the next month or two. A rebuilt AU bottom end would probably be the ideal solution, but to do so, i'll be spending another $1000+ which would either mean i would haveto put off the auto rebuild for a while or i'd haveto wait even longer to fund the engine. As said before, i will be looking into my options after new years. Yagz, don't think that i'v snubbed off the AU bottom end option as it has it's merits, i'm just yet to be convinced it's worth the extra $$$$ for my application.

Christiaan · 27-12-2006, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmyers

My decision on what to do will all depend on how much money i can collect in the next month or two. A rebuilt AU bottom end would probably be the ideal solution, but to do so, i'll be spending another $1000+ which would either mean i would haveto put off the auto rebuild for a while or i'd haveto wait even longer to fund the engine. As said before, i will be looking into my options after new years. Yagz, don't think that i'v snubbed off the AU bottom end option as it has it's merits, i'm just yet to be convinced it's worth the extra $$$$ for my application.

Yeah that's cool man, I know you haven't.

You just started talking about 300rwkw, etc, and for the extra money the AU engine is, it might be worth it so that you don't have to rip the engine out again to make it handle the power you want down the track.

Anyway, I reckon I've put forward my case quite enough.

Good luck with whatever you do ;)

Rmyers · 15-01-2007, 03:46 AM

Quick update for everyone. We pulled the 5 speed out to find what the problem was, and as we predicted the flywheel bolts were very loose. Two of the bolts already had about a cm of thread showing, so that certainly explains my rattling noise :/. What caused this you might ask? Well we hadn't put in the spigot bearing (slaps self), which would have caused the spigot to vibrate enough and shake the flywheel loose. The 5 speed had about 15-20minutes of driving on it so I don't think any real damage has been done to the box.

I'm still going ahead with the Auto conversion tho, and have purchased a 4 speed off The Goodz that has had a standard reco done on it about a year ago (was driven by some older bloke so it should be tip top). I am also purchasing Snypereb's auto when he does the manual conversion, as this has also been recoed quite recently, and both auto's came very cheap. I've gotten two boxes as one will be installed in the meantime so that i can ateleast drive her while the other is being properly built up. The person who will be doing the rebuild is currently on holiday so it's going to take a bit longer for me to get the rebuild done, and i want to drive her while the weathers nice.

I have purchased a 3k stall that will be put in and also have two B&M street spec tranny coolers that will be mounted were my petrol tank used to be. With some form of air pickup it should get plenty of airflow, plus I'd rather not mount them to the front as it'll spoil the look of the engine bay (and i've been wanting to use that empty space for something :P). For now, i will be keeping the current engine as is and see how i go, as some of the money that i've saved up for the rebuild is unfortunately needed elsewere, and will therefore take longer than originally planned to have ready.

Anyways that's it for now, all i really need to do is install this Auto and she be up and running again, hopefully it'll hold out long enough for her to attend a meet :P

Maximus · 15-01-2007, 05:14 AM

Sad to hear your back to auto. But...To each his own.

LTDHO · 15-01-2007, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maximus

Sad to hear your back to auto. But...To each his own.

Yeah I agree be his mind had been made. It's a same it's all being changed due to an early human error, not a fault.

:

efgiar · 15-01-2007, 06:31 PM

forgot the spiggot bearing *slap* lol oh well auto will hold out longer then the manual, did u check the input shaft for play? because with all that free movment it may have stuffed the input shaft bearing, easy to replace anyway.

EF_Frmnt · 15-01-2007, 07:03 PM

The AU motors have bolts going through the side of the sump into the Mains (bearing) caps which increases the ridgidity and strength of the bottom end. there was also more counterweight added to the crank in the Intech motors to reduce vibration so its a better deal all up.

Correct me if im wrong but im sure you can put BA rods and pistons in an AU block... much cheaper to get off the shelf forged rods an pistons than custom ones for the different pin height in E-Series bottom ends. And a serious motor DOES involve low compression so either copper headgasket (1.8mm thick) and o-ring the block, or get pistons. Cos once its on the road there is just so muc more temptation to wind the boost out just that liiiitle bit more

15-01-2007, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EF_Frmnt

The AU motors have bolts going through the side of the sump into the Mains (bearing) caps which increases the ridgidity and strength of the bottom end. there was also more counterweight added to the crank in the Intech motors to reduce vibration so its a better deal all up.

Correct me if im wrong but im sure you can put BA rods and pistons in an AU block... much cheaper to get off the shelf forged rods an pistons than custom ones for the different pin height in E-Series bottom ends. And a serious motor DOES involve low compression so either copper headgasket (1.8mm thick) and o-ring the block, or get pistons. Cos once its on the road there is just so muc more temptation to wind the boost out just that liiiitle bit more

problem with the forged BA pistons is they have the top of them machined to suit a 4 valve head not a 2 valve like the EA-AU heads....you will have to get custom ones done either way but you could base it of the BA design just get blank ones and get them fly cut. just make sure they have a decent size bowl.

EF_Frmnt · 15-01-2007, 07:31 PM

Yeah but most low comp pistons are not fly cut with recessions for the valves.. low comp is just a big f-off dish high comp has fly cuts, and there is usually no swirls or any bowl type machining done on low comp pistons. Ive never seen low comp pistons with fly cutting done.. any pics or cars that do have them??