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Old 25-10-2008, 02:49 PM   #1
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Default mixed Dyno results i dont know?

got my car dyno'ed today, pulled 115 rwkw a bit low from my point of view, i believe it has a bit more in it. It was dyno'd in 2nd when asked for 3rd gear, he tried 3rd but it kept kicking back he was a bit eager to me, you gotta let em slowly build revs in 3rd or else this happens, he mentioned my cam timing is late as you can see! So im not sure what to do now? or who to see that can fix the issue.

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Old 25-10-2008, 03:03 PM   #2
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What mods have you got for your 115rwkw?
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Old 25-10-2008, 03:04 PM   #3
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http://www.fordforums.com.au/attachm...id=47575&stc=1
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File Type: jpg dyno run.jpg (79.2 KB, 99 views)
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Old 25-10-2008, 03:06 PM   #4
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paccie comps, headwork, stock cam, intake. stock driveline. Didnt use the generic flash tune, car was on standard tune as i wanted to know my base line. Its not running right i'll get it going better, theres a big flat spot at 3500, then it takes off and screams, but i have no bottom end at all, someone mentioned that my converter could be slipping but im not sure.
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Old 25-10-2008, 03:12 PM   #5
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Maybe the stock cam is holding you back?
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Old 25-10-2008, 03:20 PM   #6
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yeah maybe, but the timing seems out to me, it feels out, just the way it drives, makes power to late in the rev range.
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Old 25-10-2008, 04:22 PM   #7
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looks all right to me .... u can still see the kickdown

HP is not significantly affected between 2 and 3rd gear, just torque
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Old 25-10-2008, 05:30 PM   #8
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i dont know, the way i see it, u spend thousands and your still at a stock car power level. this will prob be the end of it now
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Old 25-10-2008, 05:43 PM   #9
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my XR6hp auto pulled 118rwkw stock and then 128rwkw with a set of paccies 2 1/2 xorst and a Tickford intake panel filter....
I'm no expert but i think the stock cam must be holding you back
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Old 25-10-2008, 06:00 PM   #10
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what sort of engine is it? 6 or 8...?
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Old 25-10-2008, 06:59 PM   #11
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damn i love this ... all these comments that its not enough HP

do a search on how dynos work and how to be used ...

the figures are relative and not absolute. take it to the track and see what it does there and compare that. there is no use try to compare the performance output of ur car to XYZ in perth or brisbane etc etc

i explained this a long time ago ...

as an indication, car my car made 119kw at the wheels and ran consistent 14sec passes - explain that ;). we get plenty of cars through, expecially from down south, that make X HP, but unaltered make up to 50HP less on our dyno. Just show the diff in dyno, setup, tune and weather, etc etc
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Old 25-10-2008, 07:07 PM   #12
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Exactly EvilChief.
I ran 121 kw on RDP dyno for a 15.8 1/4 mile.
I ran 133 kw on B.E.S.T dyno for 14.9's.
You see a lot of people in the power/times thread with "160 kw, 150 kw etc etc" who only pull 15's and cant get any lower.
A dyno is a tuning tool. If you want a high horsepower reading use C16........
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Old 25-10-2008, 07:10 PM   #13
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I ran a 15.5 @93mph ..no idea what it means except its slow
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Old 25-10-2008, 07:20 PM   #14
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Sorry dont have an auto so cant quote but I have a 6 speed man always dyno in 4th gear as it is 1:1 drive any other gear is incorrect check yr manual and see which gear is a 1:1 ratio and thats the gear you should use anything else is wrong. Hope this helps
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Old 25-10-2008, 07:48 PM   #15
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Just a quick question, with a g-tech, after the 1.4 mile it gives ya the result, is your RWKW the result it gives you, or the highest RWKW obtained in the run?
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Old 25-10-2008, 08:20 PM   #16
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It is supposed to be done in 3rd for the auto's.
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Old 25-10-2008, 10:48 PM   #17
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All dyno's will give you a different read out. Also have to be run in 3rd for auto's ..

115 is abit low for the work you've done ... I'd go to another dyno reader too double check ;)
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Old 26-10-2008, 08:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilChief
damn i love this ... all these comments that its not enough HP

do a search on how dynos work and how to be used ...

the figures are relative and not absolute. take it to the track and see what it does there and compare that. there is no use try to compare the performance output of ur car to XYZ in perth or brisbane etc etc

i explained this a long time ago ...

as an indication, car my car made 119kw at the wheels and ran consistent 14sec passes - explain that ;). we get plenty of cars through, expecially from down south, that make X HP, but unaltered make up to 50HP less on our dyno. Just show the diff in dyno, setup, tune and weather, etc etc
Hmm..dyno figures...

125 rwkws... 15.125 at 90 mph
131 rwkws 14.7 at 92mph
141 rwkws 14.2 at 97mph
This is all from an unnamed dyno operator here. Also note that my friend with his el fairmont ghia manual with less weight than the wagon on the same dyno pulled 170 rwkws and pb 14.181 at 97.4 mph.

Dont get me started on dynos..How does the car feel to drive? Does it feel quicker?

Track is the one true dyno.
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Old 26-10-2008, 08:55 AM   #19
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Oh one other note.When I got 141 on that dyno I got 170 at my normal workshop
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Old 26-10-2008, 09:13 AM   #20
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yeah the car feels quicker than that, a modded turbo r33 pulled 130rwkw before me so im not gonna get caught up on my result. seems a little low. ive pulled out my spark plugs this morning and there completely covered in thick brown stuff again, car doesnt use water either.
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Old 26-10-2008, 09:27 AM   #21
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Brown or orange? Forget the result. The way to know is be honest with yourself.Did the car go faster with the paccies or did it feel lethargic to drive around?From there you have to be honest again..did the headwork make the car faster? if you can honestly say yes then the dyno means nothing.
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Old 26-10-2008, 01:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V3RSAC3
All dyno's will give you a different read out. Also have to be run in 3rd for auto's ..

115 is abit low for the work you've done ... I'd go to another dyno reader too double check ;)

hehe ill try that next time i get a car with a powerglide ;)

the gear selection for tuning is not neccesarily relevant.

the 1:1 gear is mainly chosen to get an accurate torque reading as the torque multiplier through the gearbox falls away. HP readings are minimal to insignificant between gears. in many instances i tend to do initial tuning in a lower gear to keep actual speeds down and keep the retarders of the dyno cooler (big issue up here as they overheat very quickly). also some cars use extremly tall final drive ratios, which can max out the overspeed of the dyno, hence a lower gear has to be used.
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Old 26-10-2008, 11:02 PM   #23
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at B.E.S.T performance that held the ford vs holden day me and monty attended
they ran both our cars in 3rd(and all the other auto commos and falcons)
and all kicked back to 1st if the operator stomped the go pedal from 60kmh = useless
the owner said oi cruise upto 120 then stomp it to the operator... which worked fine
even tho monty(who ran directly before me) tried telling the operator thats what you had to do in the 1st place

dynos mean nothing when you can be consistent down the 1/4 mile and end up with better times after mods..that actually mean somthing (dynos dont count for any forced induction via ram air .. or efficent CAI setups... just heat soak and the weather conditions in a shed on a given day)
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Old 27-10-2008, 05:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
dynos mean nothing when you can be consistent down the 1/4 mile and end up with better times after mods..that actually mean somthing (dynos dont count for any forced induction via ram air .. or efficent CAI setups... just heat soak and the weather conditions in a shed on a given day)
Totally agree the result of a mod is what it does when you drive it. noisy induction or louder exhaust does not mean faster. (means the cops hear you sooner)
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Old 27-10-2008, 06:37 PM   #25
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hey joe, dont sweet it,

that blue EL xr 6 that pulled 123 - 125 and that is after a 2.5g rebuild and before thre rebuild it did 121 he got 2kw extra after a rebuild and new cam

but im telling ya now that car goes a lot harder and can feel the diffrence now then u could before hand

like satv said, who cares what the results say if ur happy with it, and like the way it feels thats all u need not a peice of papper.

oh and between u and me.. that dyno machine i swear is faulty, that 5.7L stato pull 40kw less then what it did 2 months ago with no changes,

brad`

p.s i got the video of ur dyno to if ya want it, didnt happen to get the screen with the results the phone cant make out the screen
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Old 27-10-2008, 07:21 PM   #26
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judging by brad's comment, i reckon get it dyno'd somewere else
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Old 29-10-2008, 02:49 PM   #27
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comp extractors, opened up intake, opened up head, stock cam = NO AIR VELOCITY. too much flow. explains your loss of bottom end power to a TEE!

you cant just go sticking 4v heads on a clapped out 302 can u?

need a cam and some spark timing to match everything up joey. and double check your cam timing by dialling it in properly with a gauge. just one tooth out could mean your cam timing is ten degrees adv/ret. just a thought.

also people saying that the dyno was dodgy. it was in shootout mode. every car would of been relative to each other.

all else fails, take to the track. time/MPH is the best indication of what power a car has.
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