any diffrences between AU 1 ecu and AU1 XR6 ecu

[kiwi_ford]

Just would like to know if this is an upgrade or am i better off doing something else as an ecu upgrade ?

[Sox]

It can be done, but needs to be coded to the vehicle by a Ford dealer.

IMO it's a waste of time if nothing else has been done.
Start with extractors, 2.5" sports exhaust, etc.

[sly]

The most important mod to do in conjunction with fitting an XR6 ECU is to fit the XR6 camshaft, as the VE table in the XR6 tune is matched to the cam. Fit one without the other and the car will run like shight.

And make sure it's an XR6 HP ECU, not a VCT one, as a VCT ECU will make a stock I6 run like shight regardless of camshaft.

But then it's probably a lot cheaper to buy a J3 chip with the XR6 bin on it from TI Performance, than to fork out for an XR6 ECU.

But you wouldn't do any of the above before doing the usual intake & exhaust mods, making sure there were no DTC codes indicating faulty sensors, and making sure your cat and O2 sensor are in good shape.

[Beer Baron]

I have a HP XR6 ecu in my SR. Its hard to start when its cold but other than that it runs perfect.

[sly]

<snip> Double posted when the database crashed.

[FGII-XR6]

if you put the XR6 HP ECU in you need to replace the cam and the fuel rail as well to get it running well ( you can't just change the reg as the rail opening is different for the XR reg)

[Sox]

Originally Posted by au3xr6

if you put the XR6 HP ECU in you need to replace the cam and the fuel rail as well to get it running well

Not true, I did my series 2 ute a few years back with no other change, and it ran fine.
In fact the only difference felt was a slightly sharper throttle response.

[FGII-XR6]

you may think it ran fine but put it on a dyno and see the results you will see a slightly faster rise in power but with reduced peak power. also in most cases you will have poor cold start due to the ECU thinking you have a different reg and cam

Originally Posted by Sox

Not true, I did my series 2 ute a few years back with no other change, and it ran fine.
In fact the only difference felt was a slightly sharper throttle response.

[Sox]

I know it ran fine.
Seat of the pants it was no different except as I mentioned, sharper throttle response.
Cold start was slightly off, but nothing to be concerned about.

I know it wouldn't have been ideal on a dyno, my point was that it will run fine day to day, with barely a noticeable difference.

Originally Posted by au3xr6

you may think it ran fine but put it on a dyno and see the results you will see a slightly faster rise in power but with reduced peak power. also in most cases you will have poor cold start due to the ECU thinking you have a different reg and cam

[kiwi_ford]

so to get the best of the ecu a camshaft and fuel rail to suit, what are the power gains from a a stock intech I6 vs an XR6 ?

[FGII-XR6]

Standard 157 Kw 357 NM
XR HO 164 Kw 366 NM
so with the ECU cam and fuel rail /reg you will gain 7 Kw

[kiwi_ford]

so would the AU XR ecu need to be programmed to fit into my AU or plug in and go ?

[FGII-XR6]

in a series two or three you need to program it but in a series one I belive all you need to do is plug it in and leave the ignition on till the smartlock light stops flashing ( about 1/2 an hour)

[The Monty]

For the same money, but better result, buy an Xcal3 and get a custom tune

[FGII-XR6]

same money??? you can pick all that gear up for $250 to $300 if you shop around

Originally Posted by The Monty

For the same money, but better result, buy an Xcal3 and get a custom tune

[kiwi_ford]

I can get the ecu for $40NZ cam and fuel rails for around $100

[The Monty]

And pick up 4 hp at the wheels, WOOT!

[sly]

Originally Posted by au3xr6

in a series two or three you need to program it but in a series one I belive all you need to do is plug it in and leave the ignition on till the smartlock light stops flashing ( about 1/2 an hour)

Except if your Series 1 is a Series 1.5 with Smartshield, in which case you need to do as per Series 2 or 3.