EB/D V8 motors

JADED6 · 02-01-2005, 07:56 PM

Just curios as to the mileage one could expect from a V8 motor in the EB/D body.

We know they scrapped the 8 in the EA due to possible over heating problems with the cramped under bonnet area but with the same body shape they rolled out 8's in the proceeding two models.
If my next car is an ED (or series 2 EB) it will be an 8 but as even the ED's are now 10 years old what kind of life would the motor have left in them?

The 6's if looked after could easily do 300,000 to 500,000kms before being P.O.S's
So... If the cooling system on a particular 8 had been maintained and the car had been serviced regularly, would it be a waste of money buying an 8 with over 200,000kms seen as the motor is 10 years old & the prices are anywhere from 7,500(ED fairmont) to 10,000 (ED XR8).

Apart from service receipts which not everyone keeps it is a bit hard to tell how well a 10 year old car has been treated. It may be great upon purchase but be dead a year later. I guess that’s the chance you take & then the money you spend fixing it will lead to many more threads on here.

TIKFD6 · 02-01-2005, 08:11 PM

It would help if you could let the heat out from underneath the bonnet.

Psycho Chicken · 02-01-2005, 08:29 PM

They didn't scrap the V8 from the EA because of under bonnet temps, they scrapped it from the XE. I guess the costs involved with the new EA just prevented much being spent on slotting a V8 in.

EDXR8 · 02-01-2005, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Psycho Chicken

I guess the costs involved with the new EA just prevented much being spent on slotting a V8 in.

Exactly with the cost of a new I6 engine and chasis there was little chance of the V8 being re-introduced in the EA.

Never heard of or experienced any cooling issues with the V8, as long as you keep good coolant in it and the radiator and fans are in good condition they run nice and cool. IMO the V8's are far more reliable compared with the I6. Not many I6's get far past 200,000kms without a new headgasket, although that isn't a big issue to fix. The V8's should easily be able to do 300,000+kms if serviced etc. I rebuilt my engine at 200,000kms and the hone marks were still clearly visible in the bores and the bearings were ok.

LUXO_8 · 02-01-2005, 10:13 PM

mines at 300,000 ( just went over to 300k today actually) and yeah its got a bit of a knock, but i know now that it hadn't had a nice life - wish i knew pre purchase lol
ive just picked up an almost new engine, so hopefully if i service it properly unlike the previous owners it will last for at least 400k

TBO240 · 03-01-2005, 10:10 AM

my v8 wagon has done 260000 and still going strong but i did have to rebuild the auto at 220000 which is common at around 200000+.Now that it has been done i should get another 200000 out of the old girl.

Plough · 03-01-2005, 10:42 AM

Mines a 1992 eb with the 5lt
Im up to only 160k. Its been a hard 160k but the motor has no knocks and uses little to know oil. A pity I am on my 3rd rebuilt 4 speed auto box.
On an other note I only got 80klm out of my last 72 lites of fuel. Thats an indication on how strong these old V8s are.

JADED6 · 03-01-2005, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plough

Mines a 1992 eb with the 5lt
On an other note I only got 80klm out of my last 72 lites of fuel. Thats an indication on how strong these old V8s are.

Are you sure that's not a typo?? It would have to be as you wont find many cars on Australian roads with as poor a fuel economy as stated below.
Typo or fuel leak, that or someone syphoned your tank.
That equates to 90L/100km..

Thanks for all the replies so far. Still looking good for an 8.
Will just have to look after the cooling side of things & hope the trans isn't stuffed when i get one.
Bonnet vents will definitely go in.

LUXO_8 · 03-01-2005, 03:43 PM

i give mine a really hard time, and the worst ive gotten is 200km from a tank.....
its usually 400 - 500km a tank though:P

NZ · 03-01-2005, 08:22 PM

Standard they aren't that great. good for lugging big loads but not really much of a 'race car' if thats your sort of thing. My EA 6cyl 5 speed was .4s quicker over 400m than my EB 5l auto. It doesnt take much to wake them up a bit. Its just the first ones you pretty much have to ditch everything except the block. Heads, manifolds (exhaust and intakes) Maf, T/B, rockers - theyre all crap.

To give you an idea of how strong they are, I have put the electric fans on mine, one night I was too tired to drive so I pulled over for a nap and left the car running. Since i dont need to run the fans when the car is moving they were off when i stopped and stupid me forgot to turn them on. 40 minutes later I woke up and my car had stopped. it had overheated and burst the radiator bottle and basically boiled dry and at some stage stalled. I had to start walking lol. We pulled the car home the next day and i put an old bottle on it and it is running just as strong as before.

tickford2001 · 04-01-2005, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EB MkII

Since i dont need to run the fans when the car is moving they were off when i stopped and stupid me forgot to turn them on. 40 minutes later I woke up and my car had stopped. it had overheated and burst the radiator bottle and basically boiled dry and at some stage stalled.

good reason to fit a couple of temperature switches and relays etc to activate them automatically mate! i run two temperature switches, when it heats up to the first switch, the first fan kicks in, then the second one when it activates the second switch. They also turn on when my air con is switched on. All works an absolute treat, and the gauge virtually doesnt move once she is up to op temp...

Plough · 04-01-2005, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JADED6

Are you sure that's not a typo?? It would have to be as you wont find many cars on Australian roads with as poor a fuel economy as stated below.
Typo or fuel leak, that or someone syphoned your tank.
That equates to 90L/100km.

lol
I wish that was the case. But I was just pointing out that you can work them really hard with no problems. Normally you will get around the 500klm+.

NZ · 04-01-2005, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tickford2001

good reason to fit a couple of temperature switches and relays etc to activate them automatically mate! i run two temperature switches, when it heats up to the first switch, the first fan kicks in, then the second one when it activates the second switch. They also turn on when my air con is switched on. All works an absolute treat, and the gauge virtually doesnt move once she is up to op temp...

Trust me mate its all in the pipe line along with a lit with abpout 20 other things I have parts for waiting to be installed/fixed. I am actually going to use a Capri thermio switch which will be drilled and threaded into the thermostat housing. The same switch will also fir into the climate control sensor port on the heater pipe but thats only if its a low series car and theres no sensor there. They work backward to normal as in the switch keeps the fans turned off, so if anything fails the fans will default back to being turned on. I am also going to set up my fans similar to how the EF falcons have them with 4 relays and 3 operating modes. I will use the fan switching in the sprint ecu once i get that in and running with the tweecer (which is needed to turn the software on for that)

At the end of it i should have 3 running modes for my fans, 1400rpm 1400rpm, 1900rpm 2300 rpm and 2300rpm 2300rpm acheived by running the fans in series and parrallel. I dont like the idea of the davis craig switches which most people use as they dont really look factory and if they do fail (or something in the circuit fails then theres no failsafe so to speak. The capri switch is also cheaper than the davis craig switch as well

EA2BA · 04-01-2005, 09:53 AM

The new I6 in the EA was faster and more power then the V8 at the time, so the V8 was scrapped, on top of that the super car scare was still lingering so Ford did not pursue a V8, but as Holden was taking sales, they saw no choice but to bring it back.

Extreme_2020 · 05-01-2005, 07:06 PM

My ED 5.0 has 167,000 on it...motor idles like new, doesnt use any oil/water at all. Although it has been looked after by the previous owners. Always starts every time!.

The 4 sp. Auto has been rebuilt tho, and the diff has been replaced with something rebuilt and of a better ratio (3.11 LSD i think?...i havent had a look tho at the tag on it...),but no transmission cooler was fitted from the factory purchase, and it seems heat is what kills the 4 speeds. It has had one fitted since the rebuild and shifts like new, oil still has a nice color.

But the motors themselves seem not to overheat at all in the E series engine bay. Mine usually sits between O and R (+ or - a bit depending on how im driving it) on the (s pak cluser) gauge.

Extreme

Brent-EA Ghia · 05-01-2005, 07:23 PM

The e-series are said to have inadequate cooling systems, but I feel if there looked after they work very well, Mine does anyways!

Brent

Psycho Chicken · 05-01-2005, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dellboy999

The new I6 in the EA was faster and more power then the V8 at the time, so the V8 was scrapped

I don't see how that could be the reason, being the V8 was dropped in 1982 and funding for the EA wasn't approved until 1983 (?).

Extreme_2020 · 05-01-2005, 09:29 PM

The V8 was dropped partly due to Ford not wanting to convert the old clevos to unleaded (power drop would be too much...that and the EFI 6 was making around 110kw already!), and funding issues. Ford assumed that buyers would prefer a EFI 6 to a Carby 8...after all the cars after the mid 80's until around 1992 were all rather plain family/luxury orientated cars.

JADED6 · 12-02-2005, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tickford2001

good reason to fit a couple of temperature switches and relays etc to activate them automatically mate! i run two temperature switches, when it heats up to the first switch, the first fan kicks in, then the second one when it activates the second switch. They also turn on when my air con is switched on. All works an absolute treat, and the gauge virtually doesnt move once she is up to op temp...

Sound similar to mine.
(As dreamt in 1st post.. Finally got the 8 - ed ghia)
Twin thermo fans.
Turn the key to accesories and both fans come on,
turn engine on, they go off..
1 comes on when and if it's needed,
if you have air cond on, 1 is always on, the 2nd kicks in whenever it's needed
IF (apparently) the engine gest hot, then both come on til it cools.

Had the air conditioner on, 30c day, 120km round trip, mixed driving conditions & the temp gauge stayed well in the lower part of ideal/normal op temp.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JADED6

Bonnet vents will definitely go in.

Not now. Temp seems sweet as.