Cam to suit injected 5lt windsor

walker · 16-04-2006, 02:35 PM

Hi just wondering can anyone help shed some light, I'm wanting to install a larger cam in my eb XR8 whats the largest I can go without to much complication as well as how much are they and how much to install.
Would I pick up much power???????????would it give it a nice camy note

Clarke AV · 16-04-2006, 03:20 PM

If it's an auto it wouldn't go any bigger than an E303. I've been told that the B303 are a bit better, I don't know why. You'll have to port your heads, do your exhaust, get rid of the HO manifold, or you wont get any pow3er gains. It will run with the stock computer and you'll need to raise your idle. Mine seems to run best at about 950 to stop the shaking around. It's a lot of work plus double valve springs, better retaining clips, and while you're at it you should throw in some roller rockers. Keep the ratio at 1.6 though. Hope this is some help. That's what I had to do to my donk.

LUXO_8 · 16-04-2006, 03:24 PM

i personally wouldnt just do a cam without heads and intake .. the stock heads are pathetic.

some GT40p heads and explorer intake off an AU V8 are a inexpensive way to get some half decent flow...

eb2flyz · 16-04-2006, 04:18 PM

have you thought about underdrive pulleys, bigger maf, 1.7 rollar rockers, el thermos? i would do these first if keeping the std heads and intakes changing the cam would be a waste of time and $$$$$ for very minimal results compared to the above listed

Barry_v · 16-04-2006, 05:26 PM

I put a 2030 camshaft in my almost stock HO motor (home ported E7 heads and HO intake) and made 135rwkw, which was a gain of about 10-15kw from the previous run before the cam. it only really came alive when i put a pro products Typhoon intake on though, which increased output to 150rwkw (still with E7s). car has run 15.1@92mph (traction problems), but would be high/mid 14s given a lighter car (its a DC LTD) and better traction (I was running old 205s).

eb2flyz · 16-04-2006, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barry_v

I put a 2030 camshaft in my almost stock HO motor (home ported E7 heads and HO intake) and made 135rwkw, which was a gain of about 10-15kw from the previous run before the cam. it only really came alive when i put a pro products Typhoon intake on though, which increased output to 150rwkw (still with E7s). car has run 15.1@92mph (traction problems), but would be high/mid 14s given a lighter car (its a DC LTD) and better traction (I was running old 205s).

i ran a 15.1 with a set of paccies and a k&n pod filter, while still arguing with traction probs with the std HO motor. you can get very goods gains from underdrives, bigger maf 70mm pref, el thermos and a set of 1.7 rr without costing a bucket load, and having to pull the engine half apart.

this link might help answer some ?'s and give results of above mentioned mods - without pulling the motor apart

http://www.fpvtickfordclubwa.com.au/...?showtopic=452

Barry_v · 16-04-2006, 07:26 PM

at what MPH and with what gearbox? what rwkw? thats a damn good time for a stocker! 3.27 rear still?

I have underdrives and a pro-M maf, they help but I cant see them making more than a couple of kw difference. Extractors are definatly worth it though.

1.7 rockers arent such a hot idea with standard springs on an older motor, the gain from the extra lift is cancelled out by the valvefloat at higher rpm! in the 5.0 ford dyno tests book by richard holdener (which i recommend you get) one older motor made less power with the 1.7s.

the three things i think are worth doing are manifold, cam and extractors. having better heads is also important, but they can still make reasonable power with E7s.

dont bother with a bigger throttle body either.

walker · 16-04-2006, 08:15 PM

what manifold do you recomend,
are the AU MAF from the XR8's any good,

eb2flyz · 16-04-2006, 08:31 PM

my car was as it came from the factory ( t5, 3.27lsd ) just with paccies and small k&n pod filter, cant remember the exact mph cant find the timeslips and unfortunately i didn't dyno the car before i rebuilt the motor.

i have seen good results with 1.7 r/r's mind you that was on a elIIxr8 - also ugrading valve springs is a good idea when doing these - and they can be done without removing the heads

the one thing i have found is by taking unessicary load of the motor - underdrives & thermos - made quite a bit of differance how the car accelerated drove - so much smoother throughout the whole rev range

upgrading the maf can make a big difference - but only if the motor can actually use the required amount of air - ie decent exhaust with 1.7's you can really notice the differance of going to the bigger maf

agree with the t/b not needed until bigger heads and intakes are put on

as far as the manifold go's the explorer manifolds are a great upgrade over the std ho design, but you also should look at the future plans for the car and try and build it up to suit as a complete combo - ie it would've been a waste of time and money for me as i had to go for a R serie trickflow manifold to suit my motor as a combo. not saying dont get rid of the HO manifold but think about future plans if an explorer manifold will suit all of the future requirements it is an absolutely great manifold that can be sourced and fitted quite cheaply and give great gains for the above modifications.

eb2flyz · 16-04-2006, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walker

what manifold do you recomend,
are the AU MAF from the XR8's any good,

check out the link in one of my post further up this will explain how to fit the au 70mm mafs

Clarke AV · 16-04-2006, 08:37 PM

Well I agree with Barry. I personally got my biggest power gain from putting on a typhoon manifold. The above combination I mentioned didn't prove to produce any power gain as though the car would have been stock from ffactory, just made it stronger and safer to rev without breaking. I also think diff combination of 3.27 is quite good to keep it as a dialy driver. I would love to put on bigger heads but then you would have to update the entire drive chain plus update your brakes. My main plan at the moment is the tweeker engine management. Then that will enable me to put on a MAF and it'll be finished and I'll shut the bonnet and only do oil changes. I wonder if it will be still going in 400,000 km - which the first donk did as a stockie. Or will it wear out faster due to the mods or will it last longer? I don't know.

**ebxr8240** · 16-04-2006, 09:06 PM

what would you pay for an E303 cam ???

eb2flyz · 17-04-2006, 03:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clarke AV

Well I agree with Barry. I personally got my biggest power gain from putting on a typhoon manifold. The above combination I mentioned didn't prove to produce any power gain as though the car would have been stock from ffactory, just made it stronger and safer to rev without breaking. I also think diff combination of 3.27 is quite good to keep it as a dialy driver. I would love to put on bigger heads but then you would have to update the entire drive chain plus update your brakes. My main plan at the moment is the tweeker engine management. Then that will enable me to put on a MAF and it'll be finished and I'll shut the bonnet and only do oil changes. I wonder if it will be still going in 400,000 km - which the first donk did as a stockie. Or will it wear out faster due to the mods or will it last longer? I don't know.

yes but the main point i'm trying to make here is get the basic bolt-ons on first as these will not only create/free up extra hp now, but also add to the complete combo and are really the worthwhile basics to start with on any performance upgrades

the 3.27 is a great ratio with a std or mild motor but when you start playing with some good cams it is way to tall and very unstreetable, this is where 3.7's really shine - well in my case the gear change didn't affect my 1/4 times or mph but made a huge differance to the drivability of the car on the street, even my fuel economy has improve by going to the shorter gears.

oh and on another point - brakes and suspension should be one of the main prioritys on anyones list before they think about going any faster

:

there are many ways to do the same job, but at the end of the day the best thing to do is get educated opinions from others that have been there and done that so i now believe i have made my point and will leave it other educated or even opinionated ppl to make thier claims

NZ · 17-04-2006, 11:44 AM

I gotta agree with flyz.

I've stuffed around with various bits and peices on my car and often been dissapointed with the results and wondered if it was worth it. It hasnt been till now that everything has come together and its going wonderfully. What he needs to do is work out what he wants from the car and decide from that the parts he's going to need to do it.

LUXO_8 · 17-04-2006, 11:45 AM

if you're quick there is a fairly cheap pair of GT40P heads here

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-289-302-...QQcmdZViewItem

walker · 17-04-2006, 03:21 PM

if you're quick there is a fairly cheap pair of GT40P heads here

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-289-302...Qc mdZViewItem

So would those heads, different manifold, and a new cam be the way to go, as I have allready done the exhaust