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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 20-10-2006, 11:34 PM   #1
Christiaan
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Default AU engines pre-modified

Guys,

Just came accross this on ebay. AU Engines that come with the alternator AND modified sump to fit any EA-EL. They have alloy welded the sump by the looks of it, which is pretty expensive unless you know someone who does it.

Quite a good price too.

Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Modified-AU-4...QQcmdZViewItem

Cheers.

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Old 20-10-2006, 11:37 PM   #2
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Not bad.... That won't suit the 3belt setup though ;)
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Old 20-10-2006, 11:39 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perana XR8
Not bad.... That won't suit the 3belt setup though ;)
Very true, but what kind of a sucker would put an AU engine in with multi belt?? ;)

Lucky I just converted to Single belt
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Old 20-10-2006, 11:39 PM   #4
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mmm.. nice
perfect for EF/EL owners!
wonder what freight would be worth though.
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Old 20-10-2006, 11:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuresm58
Very true, but what kind of a sucker would put an AU engine in with multi belt?? ;)
Some kind of cheep bastard! :P

Freight wouldnt be huge.. definetely under a $100 id say
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Old 20-10-2006, 11:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EFFalcon
mmm.. nice
perfect for EF/EL owners!
wonder what freight would be worth though.
The last AU engine we got down from Queensland to the workshop was around $55 freight.
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Old 20-10-2006, 11:51 PM   #7
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Isnt the whole point of doing the swap to get the single belt and bbm really so it seems a little pointless to me.
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Old 20-10-2006, 11:52 PM   #8
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not really... AU engines will generally have low km's, i know if i was changing the main reason would be for the lower KM's on the engine.
the serpentine belt and BBM would simply be bonus
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Old 20-10-2006, 11:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starkersEB
Isnt the whole point of doing the swap to get the single belt and bbm really so it seems a little pointless to me.
No.

The point of the conversion is to get a MUCH more refined, stronger, more powerful long motor into your E-series.

I've got a single belt on my ED engine, and BBM isn't worth the effort.

An AU engine is SUCH an improvement over our leaky, crappy E-Series engines.
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Old 20-10-2006, 11:54 PM   #10
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AU engines also go a lot better and rev a lot smoother. Even with 3belt setup and EA-D manifold AND they dont leak oil!
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Old 20-10-2006, 11:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perana XR8
AU engines also go a lot better and rev a lot smoother. Even with 3belt setup and EA-D manifold AND they dont leak oil!
Amen!

It's amazing that Ford didn't refine the 4 litre before the AU. They had 8 years to do something about them. Took way too long.
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Old 21-10-2006, 12:03 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuresm58
No.

The point of the conversion is to get a MUCH more refined, stronger, more powerful long motor into your E-series.

I've got a single belt on my ED engine, and BBM isn't worth the effort.

An AU engine is SUCH an improvement over our leaky, crappy E-Series engines.
Ok no worries, my EB came with AU power with bbm and single belt, i just think that if ya gonna do the swap you might aswell swap the lot. But i guess ive never had the h/f's of doing it lol
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Old 21-10-2006, 12:04 AM   #13
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If i was doing it again id definetely go the serpentine setup.. so much easier just a bit more expensive.
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Old 21-10-2006, 03:53 AM   #14
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I still don't understand what's wrong with just grinding the ribs back on the front of the sump to make it fit. That's what I done to mine and it hasn't even come close to hitting anything.

$400 for an 80,000km motor that seems to be light years ahead of what I had previously, is more than a bargain
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Old 21-10-2006, 06:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ned
I still don't understand what's wrong with just grinding the ribs back on the front of the sump to make it fit. That's what I done to mine and it hasn't even come close to hitting anything.

$400 for an 80,000km motor that seems to be light years ahead of what I had previously, is more than a bargain
because thats not enough for EF/EL's.
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Old 21-10-2006, 10:35 AM   #16
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so for it to fit into a EA all you have to do is grind the fins?????
or do you have to modify the sump (weld/Cut) aswell.....??....
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Old 21-10-2006, 10:59 AM   #17
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So what the KW this thing pulls out ?
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Old 21-10-2006, 12:15 PM   #18
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All I done was grind the ribs back on the front of the sump and tapped the bar foward just slightly for safe measure.

KW, I'm unsure of yet it will get dyno'd in December at the Geelong Dyno Day. It pulls waaaay harder, revs smoother, and the BBM isn't connected yet. I can't fault it, and I can beat things I couldn't keep up with previously.

That give you a fair indication?
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Old 21-10-2006, 12:23 PM   #19
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AU motors are sweet. I drove the GF's AU last night and it feels so much smoother and has more torque at low revs. Not quite as fast as mine but nicer to drive.

Auto is so much better than manual!

I reckon a BA motor would be better still though :
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Old 21-10-2006, 12:35 PM   #20
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the au engine are soooo much better !!!

$1200 is a bit rich though!!
i payed 550 with all accesorys and 60,000 then all i did was grind the ribs off the front of the sump and she went in no problems!!!

ba motor would be sweet as but $$$ conversion modifying ...
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Old 21-10-2006, 04:35 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ned
All I done was grind the ribs back on the front of the sump and tapped the bar foward just slightly for safe measure.
Was that for an EF/EL conversion or for an earlier model E series?
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Old 21-10-2006, 05:02 PM   #22
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Ok, It seems alot of people don't know the difference between an EA-ED k-frame, and an EF-EL k-frame.

The EA-ED k-frame has a the bar type setup that ned is talking about. The only necessary measure is to grind the front fins from the sump, and push the bar slightly forward so that there is around 3-5cm's clearance. EA-ED is easy, but more expensive, as the single belt system is preferred over converting the AU engine to multi belt.

The EF-EL has a completely different k-frame. It's alot thicker, and only allows a small gap for the sump to poke down into. The AU sump fouls the k-frame heavily, and the only way to get the AU engine to fit, is to either;

a) Remove the sump and cut/weld it to fit (as the guys in the ebay advertisement have done)

b) Modify/weld the k-frame to allow for the extra size of the AU sump.

Both of those options are quite expensive. Alloy welding is a specialty, and not as easy as steel. And the other option, I would NEVER cut the k-frame on a car, simply for structural integrity. If someone who had modified the k-frame improperly, without an engineers assistance, got into an accident, the frame could bend alot easier, and make the car unsafe.

These engines are pricey, but a god send for EF-EL owners. EA-ED owners can get a cheaper, un-modified AU engine, but will have to spend more money on single belt system.

Hope this clears things up.
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Old 21-10-2006, 05:07 PM   #23
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Or they can harden the **** up and get the grinder out to make the 3 belt system fit like Doug did many moons ago.
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Old 21-10-2006, 05:10 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dansedgli
Or they can harden the **** up and get the grinder out to make the 3 belt system fit like Doug did many moons ago.
Yeah, I did it to an AU engine a few weeks back. It's not hard, but it's a whole heaps of stuffing around. Just grab the Single belt stuff and don't be such a tightarse ;)
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Old 21-10-2006, 05:55 PM   #25
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im sure a full reco el xr motor with au internals is better than a grinded up au one :P
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Old 22-10-2006, 10:05 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuresm58
Ok, It seems alot of people don't know the difference between an EA-ED k-frame, and an EF-EL k-frame.

The EA-ED k-frame has a the bar type setup that ned is talking about. The only necessary measure is to grind the front fins from the sump, and push the bar slightly forward so that there is around 3-5cm's clearance. EA-ED is easy, but more expensive, as the single belt system is preferred over converting the AU engine to multi belt.

The EF-EL has a completely different k-frame. It's alot thicker, and only allows a small gap for the sump to poke down into. The AU sump fouls the k-frame heavily, and the only way to get the AU engine to fit, is to either;

a) Remove the sump and cut/weld it to fit (as the guys in the ebay advertisement have done)

b) Modify/weld the k-frame to allow for the extra size of the AU sump.

Both of those options are quite expensive. Alloy welding is a specialty, and not as easy as steel. And the other option, I would NEVER cut the k-frame on a car, simply for structural integrity. If someone who had modified the k-frame improperly, without an engineers assistance, got into an accident, the frame could bend alot easier, and make the car unsafe.

These engines are pricey, but a god send for EF-EL owners. EA-ED owners can get a cheaper, un-modified AU engine, but will have to spend more money on single belt system.

Hope this clears things up.

cleared a few things up on how to fit it, yet i still don't know why you should. why are they a better motor? whats different between the EA to AU?
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Old 22-10-2006, 01:47 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EB Pete
cleared a few things up on how to fit it, yet i still don't know why you should. why are they a better motor? whats different between the EA to AU?
For starters, engine reconditions are not cheap. It can be anywhere upto $1500 for a reco for your engine. Why not fit a 60,000km AU engine for $800?

Plus, as has been said alot in this thread, AU engines are smoother, more refined, they don't leak, they have less headgasket troubles, they use a 110amp alternator, the bottom end internals are stronger, etc.

All around, they are a better engine.
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Old 22-10-2006, 07:25 PM   #28
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Main changes are Better head, longer rods (therefore higher piston pin height), crank better balanced, cross bolted main caps, better valve train geometry.
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Old 22-10-2006, 08:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perana XR8
Main changes are Better head, longer rods (therefore higher piston pin height), crank better balanced, cross bolted main caps, better valve train geometry.

so the main caps are 2 bolt, but go in on an angle? how is the head better?


thanks
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Old 22-10-2006, 08:24 PM   #30
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Better flow (unless you have an EF/L XR head) with smaller ports = better air velocity, smaller valve stems, supposedly has better coolant passages too for more even cooling.

The mains have standard Bolts going straight in but then also have bolts going in at 90deg to the other bolts.
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